Table of contents:
Video: A Pond In The Garden Is Real. Part 3
2024 Author: Sebastian Paterson | [email protected]. Last modified: 2023-12-16 13:47
What can be a reservoir in the garden and what is more convenient to make it from
- Installation of a finished plastic pond made of polypropylene
- Coating of a concrete reservoir with waterproofing material GIPERDESMO
- Pond care
Installation of a finished plastic pond made of polypropylene
The reservoir is turned upside down, installed in the place of digging in and outlined on the ground along the outer and inner contours; the pit is dug by the shape and size of the shape, the depth of the pit should be only 5 cm greater than the shape
After digging the pit, make sure that its bottom is horizontal, tamp the soil at the bottom and sprinkle sand on the soil with a layer of about 3 cm. In no case should you lay a film on the bottom of the pit - it will prevent water from leaving the soil from precipitation and irrigation, and as a result, water will accumulate under the mold, and after it freezes, the resulting ice will displace the mold in winter.
Lower the mold into the hole, press it into the sand and make sure it is horizontal (adjust as needed) and support the mold on all sides with wooden planks.
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Run water from a hose into the mold and at the same time fill the space between the mold and the excavation with earth (or sand), removing the wooden supports after filling the voids.
Disguise the edges of the mold with stones or tiling (the mortar should not get into the pond water), laying them horizontally with a slight hover above the water.
Whether to drain water for the winter from a rigid mold or not - this issue is decided depending on the quality of the mold (from ordinary plastic - less resistant to temperature changes and pressure, from polypropylene - more practical) and its depth (at least 60 cm). If possible, it is better not to risk it and remove almost all the water from the pond for the winter, leaving a small amount of it with insects, snails and buds of floating plants; on the bottom of the mold, put several thick sticks (or a board, or pieces of foam) and cover the bottom with a thick layer of leaves, and put boards on top of the mold and stretch the film.
Coating of a concrete reservoir with waterproofing material GIPERDESMO
Before coating, the surface of cementitious substrates must be thoroughly free of dust, dirt and debris and must be dry.
The HYPERDESMO coating is applied in several layers.
The first coat in the form of a colorless Hyperdesmo-D should be applied to the substrate using a spray gun, brush or roller, the best results are obtained by using a short-haired velor roller. Consumption when applying the first layer: 150-250 g / m² - for absorbent surfaces in the form of concrete.
If the first layer has been absorbed without residue, then after its hardening, colorless Hyperdesmo-D should be applied again.
A colored or colorless second coat can be applied under normal conditions (+ 20 ° C) after 2.5–3.5 hours, but no later than five hours after the first one is applied. Consumption of mastic when applying the second layer: 80-150 g / m² (excessive consumption can lead to the formation of micro-bubbles in the coating, especially when working in wet conditions).
It is better to apply the material in several thin layers. The next layer can be applied immediately after the stickiness of the previous layer has disappeared, but no more than seven hours later. The best result in terms of wear resistance of the coating is achieved with minimal interruptions between layers.
At a temperature of + 20 ° C, the surface can be used after 48 hours (at low temperatures, the curing time increases).
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Pond care
In spring, the reservoir is cleared of debris, washed and filled with fresh water. In April, overwintered plants are immersed in containers, placing special fertilizers in the form of granules under the gravel. New plants can be planted in May. During the season, plant debris is promptly removed and the walls are cleaned. Filamentous algae, forming green lumps, are periodically removed with a stick, since the filtration system cannot cope with them. Add water as it evaporates. If you have to partially change the water, then water the beds with it - this is an excellent fertilizer.
If the pond is shallow, then the containers are removed for the winter, the plants are cut off, transferred to the basement, placed in a container with water, or transferred with moss and monitored for moisture. In the spring, plants are transplanted as needed.
Standing water becomes polluted over time, becomes cloudy and begins to bloom, which is caused by the development of unicellular algae. And for small ponds this problem is even more serious than for large ones.
An effective solution to this problem is planting plants with floating leaves that cover the surface of the water (egg capsules, water lilies), as well as oxygenator plants that enrich water with oxygen (pond, hornwort, elodea). The action of such plants is based on competition with algae for mineral salts and carbon dioxide dissolved in water.
There is a group of plants floating on the surface - duckweed, azolla, water hyacinth, vodokras, pistia - capable of shading a pond in the absence of water lilies and egg capsules.
However, in early spring, when there is still no aquatic vegetation, it is necessary to use the so-called algicides, which selectively destroy algae. It must be remembered that these drugs are not harmless to human health and pond dwellers, therefore they can be used strictly following the instructions for use.
Even better, when constructing a pond, provide a drainage hole in the bottom of the bowl - through it it will be possible not only to drain part of the water when it is replaced (ideally, weekly), but also to organize the filtration correctly. Water entering the filters through the drainage hole, with the help of a special pump, will be able to get back into the pond - this way you will provide a “water cycle” in miniature.
The water that you will drain can be used when watering the garden - if fish live in your pond, then in this case they will enrich it with nitrogenous compounds that are useful for the soil.
Of course, filtration is not necessary, but it is desirable - then the water in your pond will always remain clean. True, the price of such a pond (taking into account the cost of the pump and filters) will approximately double.
Due to the fact that it is necessary to filter various substances from the pond, it is recommended to use different types of filters.
The following are these types of filters:
- mechanical filtration: filters out large particles such as foliage, silt, droppings, etc.
- biological filtration: microorganisms decompose harmful substances and convert nitrite to nitrate;
- chemical filtration: binding and neutralization of toxic substances.
As a rule, in the conditions of a garden-garden, the use of mechanical and biological filters is sufficient.
Filters should be as large as possible and water should flow through them as slowly as possible. This prevents clogging of filters and maintains an active state of microorganisms.
The ideal option is to purchase a ready-made pond filtration kit in one box (with the pump).
The volume of your reservoir plays an important role in choosing a filter. The instructions for each filter indicate for what volume of water it is intended.
Read in the first part of the article:
- Purpose of the reservoir
- The location of the reservoir
- The shape of the reservoir
- The dimensions of the reservoir
- Security
- Work force
Read in the second part of the article:
- Film reservoir without a concrete bowl
- Film pond-pool with a concrete bowl
- Ready-made plastic pond made of polypropylene without a concrete bowl
- Plastic pond-pool made of polypropylene on request with a concrete base
- Concrete pond-pool with a special waterproofing coating HYPERDESMO
- Construction of a concrete bowl for film and concrete reservoirs
- Construction of a film reservoir
- How to choose the right film?
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