Table of contents:
- The use of green fertilizer in the garden area allowed to increase the yield of all crops by one and a half times
Video: Green Goo Is An Excellent Plant Fertilizer
The use of green fertilizer in the garden area allowed to increase the yield of all crops by one and a half times
An analysis of the agrarian literature shows that the overwhelming majority of authors recommend the use of mineral fertilizers for fertilizing garden crops, and in some cases, according to my calculations, their total dose reaches an excessive value, reaching 270 g / m². And this, as practice shows, often acidifies the soil, reduces the humus content in it in a ratio of 1: 3, gives an advantage to pathogenic fungi instead of bacteria, etc.
Manure and slurry recommended by another group of authors for this purpose have become too scarce and expensive due to the multiple reduction in the livestock population.
Under these conditions, very many summer residents and gardeners began to give preference to green fertilizers in the form of herbal infusion when feeding, which is recommended by the third group of authors. They consider it necessary to use plastic or wooden buckets for its preparation, fill them with weeds in a volume of 2 kg and keep them in water for two weeks.
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Having tested this method and convinced of its obvious shortcomings, I went further in my practice. Now I can say that, on many years of experience, I was convinced of the effectiveness of the preparation and use of green slurry, obtained as follows:
1. The process of preparing the slurry is carried out in a special fermenter tank with a capacity of 200 liters (see photo), which, in contrast to the above-mentioned buckets, makes it possible to completely supply all the main crops grown in the plots with additional fertilizing. The tank itself is metal, but to avoid corrosion, it is covered from the inside with two layers of oil paint. At the same time, the tank is placed not in a warm room, as is often recommended for the same buckets, but in the sun, and it is not covered with a lid, but with a black plastic wrap tightly pressed from above. Due to this, under the influence of heat from the film heated by the sun, the fermentation process in the tank is more rapid and noticeably accelerated.
2. I do not use any weeded weeds for preparing slurry, as recommended, but only seven plants with specific biodynamic properties. These are nettle, dandelion, runny, burdock, plantain, horse sorrel and horsetail, which are always in abundance both on the site and next to it. Moreover, these plants appear even earlier than cultivated plants. All these plants are characterized by an extensive complex of physiologically active substances (flavonoids, carotenoids, vitamins, organic acids, mineral salts, etc.), which perfectly enrich the soil and plants with the necessary nutrients and actively attract a variety of microorganisms and earthworms to the beds. I also note that in order to enhance these properties, I have recently been practicing the addition of chamomile, valerian, yarrow, etc. to these plants.
3. I grind the stems and leaves of all these plants with pruning shears to a size of about 40-60 cm, which enhances and accelerates the release of physiological substances from them into the infusion. At the same time, inflorescences, flowers, roots and rhizomes are separated from the plants and removed in order to exclude the possibility of their germination in the beds.
4. I add ash and onion peel to the indicated green mixture at the rate of about 0.5 liters per bucket. Possessing a very rich spectrum of macro- and microelements and high bacteriostatic activity, these additives not only add additional nutritional value to the slurry, but also prevent the occurrence of pathogenic microflora in the plantings.
5. I fill the fermenter tank with the green mixture and additives not by weight, as recommended in the literature, but by volume at the rate of 2 / 3-3 / 4 capacity, and with the obligatory intensive stirring of the contents at least two days later.
6. I do not use any water for green slurry, but mainly rainwater, moreover well settled and warmed up.
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At the same time, I would like to emphasize that contrary to the literature recommending adding mineral fertilizers to the green mixture, I admit this only in extreme cases when there is no ash and husk at hand that provide a sufficient content of phosphorus, potassium, calcium, etc. in the slurry. I determine by its color and smell. As a rule, I have it ready not in two weeks, as is sometimes indicated in the literature, but most often in a week, when the slurry turns dark green and emits a hay, manure-like smell. I dilute the green fertilizer obtained in this way with settled water in a ratio of either 1: 7 or 1:14 and use, respectively, for root and foliar feeding of all crops, excluding onions, garlic and strawberries.
Long-term experience in the use of green slurry has convincingly shown that it is especially effective when grown plants exhibit a clear "malaise" caused by both weather conditions and a lack of basic nutrients (nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, etc.). It also acts in the event that a slowed down development of the aboveground parts of plants and ovaries is noted, as well as the thickening of any plantings. In these cases, feeding with slurry brings the fastest and most tangible healing result, which other fertilizers cannot give. The most significant effect from the use of slurry was achieved when feeding the three most important crops on the site: potatoes, cucumbers and tomatoes. Modes and doses of feeding these vegetable crops with slurry solutions are shown in the table.
Modes and doses of feeding vegetable crops with slurry solutions
|Culture||Number of dressings||The frequency of feeding||Doses of fertilizing according to the frequency, l per plants|
|Potatoes||3||before each hilling||0.5; 1.0; 1.5|
|Cucumbers||4||after planting seedlings, before flowering, during flowering and fruiting||0.5; 1.0; 1.5; 2|
|Tomatoes||five||after planting seedlings, before flowering, before the appearance of ovaries, when filling and before picking fruits||0.5; 1.0; 1.5 and 2.5|
It was also established that this use of green slurry on the site became, due to its noted special properties, not only a very effective source of nutrition for most crops, but also an important means of protecting them from diseases and pests. Proof of this is the fact that over the past six years not a single plant has suffered from diseases and pests on my site. In addition, thanks to this agricultural practice, it is possible to get rid of weed plants that are always present at the edges of the plot (in the exclusion zone) and bother neighbors. And, which is very important, using green liquid, I can reduce the consumption of mineral fertilizers by about three times. I only add them when planting seedlings or sowing seeds. At the same time, the microbiological activity of the soil not only does not suffer, but increases markedly, contributing to an increase in yields by almost 1.5 times.
I would also like to say that it is very easy and simple to prepare and use the slurry, and I get it without any financial costs. Therefore, I think that green goo deserves more attention of gardeners, it is needed more widely.