An Effective Way To Reproduce And Heal Garlic

2024 Author: Sebastian Paterson | [email protected]. Last modified: 2023-12-16 13:47

Bulb garlic

Winter garlic is good for everyone: it ripens early - it ripens for pickling vegetables, and it is harvestable - its bulbs and chives are larger than those of spring garlic! But large teeth are not always good. After all, they are larger because their number in the bulb (from 4 to 10-12 pieces) is less than in the spring, which has several dozen cloves in the bulb.

Therefore, this is also the coefficient of its reproduction. If, for example, there are four cloves in the bulbs, then when planting, we must bury a fourth of the crop in the ground. And this is not businesslike!

Fortunately, nature has provided winter garlic with a wonderful additional breeding method. It is known that garlic does not form flowers, and, consequently, no seeds, therefore it multiplies only by dividing the bulbs. Winter forms of garlic are usually arrow-headed. But why does garlic need an arrow if it cannot have flowers?

So, this arrow does not carry an inflorescence with seeds, but small chives. They are called air bulbs. They are enclosed in a sheath and there can be about 100 of them on one plant. This is where the breeding reserve lurks!

× Gardener's handbook Plant nurseries Stores of goods for summer cottages Landscape design studios

If we want to grow, for example, 200 heads of garlic, then 50-40 bulbs with 4-5 cloves will be needed for planting, and when propagated by bulbs, they will be enough from only 2-3 plants. It is also important that in addition to saving planting material, when planting garlic with bulbs, we also achieve a healthier sowing fund. After all, causative agents of garlic diseases are in the soil and are transferred when the cloves are planted with them, and the bulbs do not have contact with the ground, and, therefore, are not carriers of infection.

Unfortunately, many gardeners do not use this economical method of propagating arrowhead garlic. Someone does not know how to plant it correctly, but someone tried it, but failed: in some the bulbs froze, in others they dried up, in others the bulbs grew, but small.

I'll tell you about my experience in growing garlic and propagating it with bulbs

So, first you need to grow the garlic and get the bulbs. There are no big difficulties here. It is enough to leave arrows on a few plants grown from the largest cloves (I break them out of the rest to increase the yield of bulbs). First, the arrows are curled up in a spiral. As they grow, they straighten, and as soon as they finally straighten, it is necessary, without delay, to harvest. In our case, the harvest is both garlic heads and bulbs.

Plants must be removed entirely, tied in bunches and hung in the attic for 3-4 weeks. During this time, there will be an outflow of plastic substances in the leaves and stem to the bulb and air bulbs, and they will gain weight. After the stem dries, you can separate the bulb heads, trying to keep the sheaths intact.

I prefer to plant the bulbs in the spring, because during winter sowing, some of them freeze out, some of the planting material sticks out to the surface with frozen ground. Until spring, I store the bulbs right in the room, packed in 2-3 layers of newsprint and in an open plastic bag. A month and a half before landing, I take them apart and put them in the refrigerator, i.e. withstand at a temperature of 4-5 ° C.

Why am I doing this? Thus, the spring of the biological clock is wound up at the bulb. If this is not done, the plants do not "feel" the time, they will remain green and grow until late autumn, and sometimes even shoot. Then we will get a medium-sized unripe bulb with small teeth, which is not of interest either as a marketable bulb or as a planting material. Plants from bulbs cooled before sowing stop growing in early August. In this case, an onion is formed from one large round clove with a diameter of up to 3 cm, called a single clove.

I have been preparing the garden in the fall, because it is necessary to plant garlic in early spring, when the soil is still damp, and then it will be difficult to dig it up qualitatively. Garlic requires fertile non-acidic soil, it is light and moisture-loving. Therefore, I place the garden bed in a sunny place and fill it well with organic (compost bucket per 1 m²) and mineral (matchbox of superphosphate and a liter can of ash per 1 m²) fertilizers.

Before sowing, the bulbs are soaked for a day in an infusion of ash (1 tablespoon per 1 glass of water), changing the water 3-4 times. Pop-ups - delete. I sow to a depth of 2-3 cm after 3-5 cm in a row and 15-20 cm between rows. I always mulch planting with a layer of hay 5 cm thick. This allows you to keep moisture in the upper - root-inhabited - soil layer, and then there is no need for frequent watering, weeding and loosening.

In early August, when the leaves begin to turn yellow, I dig out the plants. If you are late in harvesting, the aboveground part of the plants will die off, and it will be difficult to find bulbs in the ground. I dry the plants for 2-3 days in the sun, spread them in a thin layer on a film and cover them from dew at night, tie them in bunches and dry them in the attic.

Grown one-toothed cloves are a full-fledged planting material for autumn planting, from which large (up to 150 g) heads of garlic are obtained the next year.

I will gladly send the bulbs of my large-fruited garlic to everyone. They, as well as planting material for more than 200 rare vegetable, medicinal, ornamental plants, can be ordered from the catalog. My address: 634024, Tomsk, st. 5th Army, 29-33, mob. t. 8913-8518-103 - Gennady Pavlovich Anisimov. The catalog can also be obtained by e-mail - send a request to E-mail: [email protected]. The catalog can be found on the site