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Video: Growing Cucumbers And Nightshades In A Greenhouse
2023 Author: Sebastian Paterson | [email protected]. Last modified: 2023-11-26 20:34
Tips for growing everyone's favorite crops
Finding detailed information about any vegetable crop in the relevant literature is not a problem now, however, in practice, when working in the garden, it is very often required to quickly get an answer to one or another question in order to immediately make the right decision. I hope that our cheat sheets will help many with this.
Solanaceous crops in the greenhouse
It is necessary to plant seedlings in a greenhouse, focusing on the features of its filling. If you use biofuel, then you can plant plants in the second half of May (sometimes even earlier), provided there are internal greenhouses with covering material (covering material is folded back for a day). If there is no biofuel, then you will have to wait for the end of the frost, and this will be mid-June.
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Tomatoes are planted horizontally, covering the lower part of the stem with soil (this will increase the overall yield), and eggplant and pepper are practically not buried.
After planting, the plants must be watered with a solution of biological products: rhizoplan (1 tbsp per 10 l of water), trichodermine (1 tsp for 10 l of water), black yeast (2 tbsp for 10 l of water) and mulch the soil sawdust. When planting under a tomato bush, 1/2 bucket of compost or 1 handful of complex fertilizer (Giant vegetable, or Breadwinner, or Bogatyr), 2 tbsp. l. superphosphate and a glass of ash. For pepper and eggplant, the dose of fertilizer is halved.
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- A week after planting, the plants are sprinkled with compost to a height of at least 3-4 cm, and then mulched with sawdust or foliage.
- Two weeks after planting, the plants are tied up and begin to form.
- For the first three weeks, the plants are not fed, provided that fertile soil has been formed in the greenhouse. Then carry out weekly root and foliar dressing. For root dressing, first, ordinary complex fertilizers are used, from the beginning of July, the dose of potash fertilizers is increased and MagBor fertilizer is added to the usual complex fertilizers.
- From the moment of flowering plants, once every two weeks, they are sprayed with preparations for fruit formation (Gibbersib or Ovary or Bud).
- And from the end of June (with a cold rainy summer - earlier), once every 10-14 days, they are sprayed with Immunocytophyte so that the plants do not get sick. In addition, tomatoes are sprayed with Oxyhom twice (immediately after planting and three weeks after planting) for a spectrum of diseases.
- During the entire growing season, the greenhouse is regularly ventilated and watered only with warm water.
- When aphids appear, 2-3 treatments of plants with phytoverm are carried out (spraying on both sides of the leaf and the stem).
1. You can plant seedlings of cucumbers around the second half of May, provided that there are internal greenhouses with a covering material in the greenhouses (for a day, the covering material is folded back) and only on ridges with biofuel.
The best option for cucumbers is to prepare such ridges with a mixture of fresh manure, sawdust, leaves and tops. Other options are possible, but in any case, organic matter should be warmed up by the time of planting (or sowing seeds). If the ridges are without manure, then 1 liter of humus or 1 handful of complex fertilizer (Vegetable giant or Breadwinner or Bogatyr) and 1 glass of ash are added to the hole.
2. Plants are not deepened when planting, since under the conditions of our temperature drops, all melons (especially cucumbers) are highly susceptible to root rot, and when the root collar is deepened, the probability of disease increases. After planting, the plants must be watered with a solution of one of the biological products: Rhizoplan (1 tbsp per 10 l of water), trichodermin (1 tsp for 10 l of water), black yeast (2 tbsp for 10 l of water) and mulch the soil with sawdust.
3. To prevent cucumber plants from getting sick, avoid high soil moisture, watered only with warm water and only in the first half of the day (at night the plants should go dry - without drops on the leaves and stems) and do not watered during spring and early summer cold snaps. They are watered not at the root, but around - the root collar should not get wet when watering. After watering, two hours later, the zones of the root necks are sprinkled with crushed coal to absorb excess moisture, and the soil itself is dusted with ash.
4. If rot nevertheless appears (the first conspicuous sign of the disease will be wilting of plants in the daytime in the sun) in some cases they can be saved: the soil is shoveled off the stem and sprinkled with a mixture (1: 1) of crushed coal and foundation.
5. For the first three weeks the plants are not fed. Then they carry out weekly root dressing (mullein, giant and potassium sulfate, three times a season - MagBor fertilizer) and foliar dressing (New ideal).
6. From the moment of flowering plants, once every two weeks, they are sprayed with preparations for fruit formation (Gibbersib, or Ovary, or Bud). And from the end of June (with a cold rainy summer - earlier), once every 10-14 days, they are sprayed with Immunocytophyte or hay infusion so that the plants do not get sick (in particular, powdery mildew).
7. During the entire growing season, regularly ventilate the greenhouse.
8. When aphids or spider mites appear, 2-3 treatments of plants with Fitoverm are carried out (spraying on both sides of the leaf and the stem).
Read the next part. Formation and feeding of tomatoes, cucumbers, peppers and eggplants →
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