Technology Of Planting Seedlings Of Vegetables

2024 Author: Sebastian Paterson | [email protected]. Last modified: 2023-12-16 13:47

Read the previous part. ← Arrangement of ridges and crop rotation on the site

It remains to add mineral fertilizer. With the help of our magazine, back in 2000, I got acquainted with the Finnish mineral fertilizer "Kemira-Agro". For six years of application, I was convinced that this is the best mineral fertilizer in Russia. I use Kemira Universal-2 as a fertilizer used for planting all crops in a crop rotation. I put a teaspoon into the planting hole and mix with the soil, and then I plant the seedlings, layering or seedling. This fertilizer is slightly soluble in water.

In years with a large amount of rainfall, as well as for plants with a long growing season, I feed 1-2 times with half the rate. Individual rates - from 1/2 teaspoon to three. For seedlings and seedlings I use Kemira-Lux soluble fertilizer in the form of a 1% solution during watering. I water the seedlings twice, the seedling once - always just under the plant - on the mulch, to the roots.

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Ash use

This excellent mineral fertilizer contains literally all the elements from the periodic table, except nitrogen and carbon. In addition to its nutritional properties, ash is also an excellent soil deoxidizer. Collecting ashes, I burn everything that burns in the garden stove. Rubbish, chips, knots, roots. The first stove was welded from 2 mm thick sheet steel. Two seasons later, unable to withstand the load, its bottom burned out. In the second stove, the design is the same, but increased efficiency and fire resistance. Several refractory bricks are laid on its bottom.

Techniques that ensure the most efficient use of the area of the beds:

1. Growing by seedling method increases the growing season, does not require thinning, facilitates weeding. For sowing seeds for seedlings, I prepare "glasses" from polyethylene bottles of the required capacity, cutting off the bottoms and neck, leaving the cylindrical part of the required size.

In the upper part of each "glass" I pierce with an awl diametrically located holes for the "rocker" (useful for removing the glass from the hole), the rocker is made of wire, usually copper. I put the "glasses" in the boxes. I fill it with peat-compost mixture with the addition of turf soil, river sand, sawdust and ash. With a planting peg I make a small hole to the required depth and with tweezers I put the hatched seeds with the spine down.

To grow seedlings in early spring and protect against possible frosts, I first use the house in gardening, then the nursery under the film. I water it regularly, feed it, take it out in the sun.

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2. I begin to prepare the soil, making sure by the thermometer that it has warmed up to + 8C at a depth of 10-12 cm. I loosen the soil with a pitchfork without turning the layer to a depth of 23 cm (length of the fork teeth). Then I level it with a rake.

3. The marking of the landing holes is done according to the scheme of an equilateral triangle. Only such a scheme ensures the most efficient use of the entire area of the ridges, and the location of the plants (after planting) with mathematical accuracy at the same distances, in all directions from each other, significantly reduces the intensity of their struggle for the feeding area among themselves. If there is no struggle, then there will be a harvest!

To turn the process of marking holes into pleasure, I made a "marker" - two equilateral triangles connected by a common vertex. It's easy to do. See the marker manufacturing scheme - and proceed. See the table in the first part of this article for the sizes of triangles for different plants. For ease of marking, lay the marking boards and press them against the edging of the ridges.

The width of the marker should be 1/2 the side of the triangle - 1/2 the pin diameter. Cut off excess with a plane. I install the marker in the lower left corner of the bed (see the diagram for marking the ridge with a marker), pressing the pins against the marking boards. I press on the marker - the pins sink into the soil. I raise the marker. There are traces on the soil. I place the marker with the lower pins in the upper tracks. The rest, I hope, is clear.

4. Digging holes. Transplanting. I use a shovel to dig a hole to a depth of 11-12 cm with a diameter slightly larger than the diameter of the "glass". With a teaspoon, I add mineral fertilizer to the hole and embed it in the soil. I take out the board from the seedling box. In the next "glass" I put a platform made of tin with a cutout for the stem (the edges are bent at the cutout, it is safe), put on the rocker and use the trowel to lower the glass into the hole. I press the platform to the soil with a 20x40x120 mm bar with one hand. With the other hand, using a rocker, I extract the "glass", then the platform. A matter of minutes. I lightly press the soil with my hands until a shallow hole is formed. I fill it with mulch and water it. Reception provides 100% engraftment and a complete absence of trauma to the root system. By doing so, you can even grow carrots through seedlings.

5. Sealing landings. This technique provides not only the efficiency of using the soil of the ridges, but also increases the range of crops grown.

I use early spring planting as follows: on beds 11-12 (see the planting plan in the first part of the article), I first grow seedlings of an early-ripening Daikon Sasha variety with harvesting on June 10, and then plant cucumber seedlings. On beds 1, 2, 3, after harvesting early potatoes, I use a late summer planting of mid-season daikons. The problem with shooting and storage is being solved. On beds 7-10 and 13-14, I grow a large list of compaction crops at the same time as the main crop.