Construction Of A Country House: Manufacturing Of Rafters (Himself A Builder - 5)

2024 Author: Sebastian Paterson | [email protected]. Last modified: 2023-12-16 13:47

My own builder

part 1, part 2, part 3, part 4, part 5, part 6

Contributing to the unrestrained growth of our temporary hut, we continue to manufacture rafter structures

There are also options for attaching the rafters to the rafter beams. Since our design is quite simple and lightweight, we will not complicate our task. I propose to make the simplest option to work, although it is quite reliable (see Fig. 1 A and B)

Figure 1A

1. We apply the lower working plane of the level (Fig. 1A) to line AB and draw line CD - depending on the cross-section of the level, it will be approximately 22-25 mm.

2. Apply a level to the end of the rafter at point A and beat off the vertical RK from point R.

3. Cut off the shaded part with a hacksaw. We get the detail shown in Fig. 1B.

4. Using the level as a template, draw a line MN on the rafter beam (Fig. 1C).

5. We cut the shaded part with a hacksaw and chop it off with an ax. Dimension F is defined by dimension C-D + 60-70 mm.

Figure 1B We

repeat the same operations on the remaining rafters. So, on the frontal rafters we have a crossbar, by the way, it is not necessary to hammer nails into them completely, it is more convenient to lift the rafters up one piece at a time, having previously marked which one is where.

On the rest of the rafter pairs, temporary crossbars must be attached, and then removed for convenience in climbing up. For what we need the crossbar, I will explain later, but for now let's deal with the forests.

On the long side at the top in the center, it is necessary to build a reliable navigation bridge so that you can walk without looking down, that is, wide enough, from it at an angle make 2 more navigation bridges in the direction of the rafters (see Fig. 2).

Figure 1C

Finished rafters are placed vertically with the ridge part up, each near its own rafter. A support board is nailed to the front part of the frontal rafters (see Fig. 3), it will not allow the rafter leg to slip from its place.

On the rest of the rafters, persistent boards will also not interfere, but this is not necessary, you can do without. We lay out 14 strong jibs 3-3.5 m long on the rafters and stock up on 70-100 mm nails.

Figure 2

1. Lift the parts of the front rafter and assemble it with your feet to the rafter, and the crossbar up.

2. We put the rafter legs on the stop boards and raise the ridge to a height of about 1.5 m.

3. We nail a solid pole 3-4 m long to the

crossbar. 4. We hang a plumb line on the crossbar.

5. Pushing the pole (nailed to the crossbar) into the bridge, we begin to lift the rafter pair. We control the vertical along the plumb line.

6. The rafter legs should be flush with the outside of the rafters.

7. One worker calms the plumb line, the other nails a nail driven into the railing to the rafter beam.

8. A second worker aligns the rafter legs in place and drives in two jibs in turn. The jibs are beaten from the inner (lower) side of the rafters and to the longitudinal six-meter log.

9. After that, the rafters are anchored to the rafters.

10. The pole folds (and does not beat off) from the crossbar.

11. The penultimate one is hitting another frontal rafter pair according to the same pattern. Corner bridges move as needed.

12. The last to be placed is the penultimate rafter.

Subsequently, the crossbars on the intermediate rafters are beaten off and placed along the cord fixed to the front rafters - it turns out like a ruler. Be sure to set all truss pairs on a plumb line, later this will bring you certain convenience in work.

The next stage, oddly enough, will be the device of the frame of the pediments, and then their sheathing with boards. It is this sequence of work that will save you material and time. There is no particular difficulty in such an operation. You just need to make sure that the details of the pediment frame are flush with the rafters and rafters. The frame racks are cut 10-15 mm into the underframe.

One of the possible options for the frame of the pediment (see Fig.). As a result of the cladding of the walls and ceiling of the second floor, a room is formed with a living area of approximately 12 m2 + storage rooms of approximately 10 m2 on both sides along the long walls. The intermediate racks are set again along the cord from the extreme racks of the pediments along the top and bottom.

Sew up the pediment from the bottom, make the joints on the racks. After fully sewing the gable, walk along the rafters with a hacksaw and get a very neat triangle. Do the same on the other side. Before installing the gable frame, be sure to build reliable scaffolding. This will make your work safe and, in general, will significantly speed up it, do not save time on this.

Figure 3

To protect against precipitation during the manufacture of the frame, it makes sense to make ebb tides. They are made in such a way that the overhangs of the roof coincide in shape and size with the ebb. It will be enough 4 "filly" on each side (see fig. 4)

Figure 4

Side A should be flush with the bottom of the rafters, which is again aligned with the cord. Detail B is cut to the required depth and secured with nails. On side C, the crate is stuffed in the usual way and covered with iron or slate. Over time, from the roofing material, black streaks may appear on the pediment from the rain - we have already passed this. "Filly" are made from a wide fifty or from hewn parts of a log. Well-executed ebb tides decorate any building and additionally protect the walls from precipitation.

Read more. "Roofing" works

My own builder:

part 1, part 2, part 3, part 4, part 5, part 6