Table of contents:

Drainage Device In A Suburban Area
Drainage Device In A Suburban Area

Video: Drainage Device In A Suburban Area

Video: Drainage Device In A Suburban Area
Video: Where Does Stormwater Go? 2024, April
Anonim

How to equip country life

Lord! How good! The site has been selected. And not that expensive. Paid, and, most importantly, issued. Let's hope that all the hardest things are behind us. Now it remains to put the house and plant the bushes.

Where to put the house? Of course, you need to place it closer to the road (but not too close). And I don't want to put extra poles for electricity, and closer to the gas main. But in this place there is a small swamp on the site, and a cheerful hillock is at its farthest end. I was just about to place a house there when my wife said: “I don’t agree. I’ll do the beds here!”

lawn
lawn

It's not that hard to argue with your wife - it's dangerous. Therefore, we will put in order the lowland. True, they say that you can't put a house in a low place, but let's try. All the same, after all, the general drainage will have to be done …

It is necessary to separate from the neighboring area. In the spring, and even during a good rain, the water flows from it to us. And I don't want the whole future lawn to be washed away onto future paths. And here we understand that the problems are just beginning. One thing pleases - you have to solve them yourself - already without officials.

Of course, you can invite a company. She will analyze the soil and choose a place for the house. They will calculate the drains and make the zoning of the site. After all, someone else's eye always sees better. In addition, it is easier for them to bring together all our wishes. Zhenya has a vegetable garden. Me - a utility site (to take care of the car, unload firewood). Mother-in-law is a greenhouse (Why? After all, tomatoes grow better in the store).

But back to the drains. They need to be done wherever they are needed. On light sandy and sandy loam soils, drainage is practically not needed. Paths are used as storm sewers. They themselves are profiled, and under them there is a layer of rubble 15-25 cm, so that the water rolls along the paths from the site into the ditch like a chute. And if there is no ditch, and there is nowhere to drain the water? Then you have to make a prefabricated pond on the site. He will collect all the excess water. In addition, it will be possible to plant nymphs (water lilies) in the summer, start carps, and swim after the bath. One word is water paradise. If the site is located on clayey soils, and even with embankment zones, then you cannot do without a powerful drainage system.

track
track

We'll have to lay a prefabricated collector, and maybe more than one. Who does not know - a prefabricated collector is a special ditch 60-80 cm deep, into which sand, granite crushed stone of different fractions, a drainage pipe and geotextile filters are placed according to a special scheme. To increase the drainage area, it is necessary to make adjoining trenches to the main collecting collector. They are also called drains. Moreover, the abutment of the drains to the main collector should be at an angle of 30-60 degrees. But how will the water flow through the drains? Do not put the pump on?

Of course not. Both the drains and the collecting manifold must be made with a slope. In side drains - 1-2 cm for each running meter. In the collecting collector - 2-5 cm per one running meter. And what if the drainage depth suddenly exceeds 1.2-1.5 m? Then in this place you need to put a drainage well. It will reduce the depth of the system, become an additional filter, and also allow drains to be connected at other angles.

But what about the swamp where you need to put the house? You can dig a pit two meters wider than the foundation. Sprinkle it with sand or sand and gravel mixture to the desired height and leave before winter. Over the winter, this pie will settle down, and next year you can fill in a light strip foundation. If the house is solid and requires a deep foundation, then in addition to good waterproofing of reinforced concrete structures, you need to make a drainage perimeter around the house. To do this, at a distance of 2-2.5 meters from the edge of the foundation, a drainage ditch is dug, which is 0.5-1 meter deeper than the lowest point of the foundation. Drainage should be backfilled with different fractions of crushed granite. At the bottom - the largest, then - the middle, then - the small fraction. In the middle there is a drainage pipe. At the exit - a collecting well and discharge of excess water outside the territory.

retaining walls, flower beds
retaining walls, flower beds

In general, when constructing drainages, it is necessary to take into account the layering of drainage materials. The first layer on top is light fertile soil 10-15 cm. Next is a layer of geotextile (but in no case spunbond).

The second layer is river (sea) sand 10-15 cm.

The third layer is granite crushed stone of fraction 20-40 mm - the thickness of the layer is at least 30 cm. As a rule, a prefabricated drainage plastic pipe is laid in it, wrapped to protect it from silting with a layer of geotextile.

In non-critical areas working in summer, a pipe with a diameter of 65 mm can be used. But they mainly use a pipe with a diameter of 100 mm.

If the drainage has a depth of more than 80 cm, then it is better to perform the lower layers from the larger fractions of crushed granite. And on the drainage perimeter around the house, you can also use a granite boulder. The basic rule is that the deeper, the larger the fraction, and vice versa.

In drainages, it is impossible to use quarry sand with a high clay content and limestone crushed stone. Clay sand does not allow water to pass through well, and crushed limestone deteriorates over time and loses its filtering properties.

And yet I wanted to make a pond. It is good that we have sufficiently dense soils and high-lying aquifers. And many people think that this is bad. Yes, indeed, it is better for plants and at home if the soil is lighter and the groundwater is deeper. Then there is less capital investment in the foundation and site preparation. But the pond is more complicated. You can make a pond on a film base or "clay castle". They will have to install a water treatment and water exchange system. And on clay soils and soils with a close aquifer, you can make a prefabricated drainage pond with natural water circulation.

Recommended: