How To Build A Bathhouse - A Sauna With Your Own Hands

2024 Author: Sebastian Paterson | [email protected]. Last modified: 2023-12-16 13:47

… Read the first part of the article: So what to choose - a bath or a sauna

Before starting the construction of a bath or sauna (in this case, a sauna), it is necessary to clearly define: where to build it, from what materials; what it should be in size, appearance, internal structure and equipment in it. An ideal place for a sauna near a reservoir: river, lake, canal, channel, pond. But not near the water itself, but at a distance of 15-30 meters, where it is dry and there is no danger of flooding. It is highly desirable that the sauna be located away from the road, in a quiet place, with an entrance from the south or west side. A steep slope is fine. In this case, the sauna can be made in the form of a dugout or a semi-dugout with a terrace on pillars. In Finland, the so-called family saunas are widespread, designed for a specific number of people. The saunas most often used are length and width: 2x2 meters and a little higher. It is hardly advisable to build too large saunas, since in addition to the additional costs of materials, it is necessary to install a large-sized stove.

The simplest is the mini-sauna. It is simply an insulated closet that one or two people can squeeze into while sitting. Such a sauna is heated by an electric oven. It is clear that in any sauna it is desirable to have at least one bench or shelves (see Fig. 1). Sauna walls are usually made of logs, mostly coniferous, which create the most favorable conditions for steaming. Solid logs "breathe", and the sauna practically does not require forced ventilation, since it happens as if by itself, since a sufficient amount of air enters and escapes through the logs.

Thanks to the logs, the humidity in the sauna is automatically regulated. But even in a log sauna, ventilation vents must be provided in order to cool the sauna as quickly as possible after use. Moreover, the ventilation vents should be located so that one is 30 centimeters from the floor, the other - on the opposite wall, 30 centimeters from the ceiling. Fresh air enters through the bottom vent located next to the heater, which passes by the hot stones of the stove and, warming up, rises to the ceiling (see Fig. 2). With regular, weekly use of the sauna, log walls almost never completely dry out like, for example, panels inside a panel sauna, and therefore the smell of fresh wood lasts longer. It is advisable (but not necessary) to select the logs for the sauna calibrated (that is, the same in thickness), which will provide the most tight connection to the frame. Log cabins can be folded in two ways: "in a cup" or "in a box" and "in a paw". The execution "in a cup" or "in a flash" provides that the ends of the logs protrude beyond the walls.

This ensures: firstly, sufficient reliability of the laid log house, and secondly, good protection of corners from wind and atmospheric precipitation. The angles made "in the paw" (see Fig. 3) require an accurate calculation when cutting out this very "paw", as well as the ability to correctly fold the frame out of them. It should be noted that the consumption of timber with this method decreases, but the blowing rate of the corners increases.

It is much easier to fold walls made of beams. The most suitable bars for this purpose are 150x150 or 150x180 millimeters. The sauna can be built with brick, stone or concrete walls and upholstered from the inside with boards with vapor barrier. Again, it is desirable to use coniferous boards because of the favorable combination of properties such as low thermal conductivity, high heat capacity, and porosity.

Frame walls with mineral or other heat-insulating materials retain heat very well. In addition to saving wood 1.5-2 times compared to log walls, the thermal conductivity of properly constructed frame walls is three times less than that of timber walls. That is, heat loss through frame walls is much less than through log, stone and brick walls.

From the outside, the sauna frame is sheathed with planks, which are placed horizontally, which ensures sufficient rigidity of the entire structure. You also need to remember that the main enemy of frame walls is moisture inside the cavity of the frame. She is able to penetrate there through the cracks between the boards during rain, blizzard, snowfall. In addition, condensation can form in cold weather when the temperature changes abruptly. Therefore, to protect the wooden frame and wall insulation from moisture, it is necessary to install a vapor barrier from the inside of the sauna.

If a log sauna (as well as a bathhouse) is built in compliance with all the necessary requirements and is properly operated, then it does not need special protection of the tree from decay. Heat, smoke and soot protect the wood to a great extent. It is undesirable to use antiseptics, since the toxic substances they contain are very harmful and give off an unpleasant odor. To maximize heat retention, sauna doors and windows are made smaller than those in living quarters. It is believed that the optimal door height from the floor is 160-180 centimeters (with a threshold height of 15-20 centimeters), the width is 65-80 centimeters. It is often necessary to enter such a door bent over and sideways. The doors are almost always single-leaf and open outward.

Furnace selection

Perhaps the key point in building a sauna is the choice of a stove. In modern saunas, metal stoves are most often used, heated by electricity or wood. Since there is no massive brickwork in them, the electric furnaces heat up quickly, precisely maintain the set temperature, and do not pollute the sauna room and atmosphere with smoke and soot. However, heating up quickly, such an oven cools down just as quickly, losing its original temperature in a short time. You should also know that when planning the installation of an electric furnace, it is imperative to consult with electricians: will the electrical household network, the power of the wiring and fuses allow you to connect an electric furnace of the required power.

Typically, electric furnaces consist of a body, electric heaters and thermal protection. They can be made with or without a heater. Sauna stoves for wood use consist of a body, a chimney and a heater. They can be made with or without refractory brickwork (see Fig. 4). Stoves with brickwork - like in a Russian bath. Firewood is burned on a grate. In stoves without brickwork, due to the low thermal capacity (no need to heat the bricks), the air in the steam room heats up quickly, which significantly reduces fuel consumption. A stove for heat storage is usually located in a special upper channel of the stove. This is very rational, since hot gases, going from the firebox to the chimney, pass through the stones, heating them. The simplest stove-stove can be built from a metal barrel (a barrel with a capacity of 200 liters is especially convenient for this purpose). It is installed on the grate of a brick-built hearth (see Fig. 5). An original sauna stove that saves fuel.

Choosing a place for a sauna

It is most convenient to place a sauna, consisting of a dressing room, a shower and a steam room in the part of the plot or estate opposite from the house. For hardening and cooling, it would be very nice to build a pool near the sauna. To clean it of debris, as well as to renew water, a drain pipe connected to an electric pump is installed at the bottom. In order to avoid troubles when using the sauna, observe at least basic rules of fire and personal safety. When constructing stoves, make sure that their heated surfaces and smoke flows do not come into contact with the combustible parts of the sauna. Clean the flue ducts regularly, as a large amount of soot accumulated in them can cause a fire.

And in order to avoid burns, the metal "filling" of the sauna must be securely insulated or placed in inaccessible places. A wooden fence should be built around the stove. In order not to fall, the floor should not be slippery. To prevent fainting and suffocation, you must constantly monitor the health and proper operation of ventilation. The tree must not be painted, dried, varnished. Well, in all other respects, try to follow the popular wisdom: "Steam - do not burn yourself, give in - do not fall down, do not fall off the shelf …". So with light steam! …