We Build A Well With Our Own Hands - And A Well, A Sad Crane - 2

2024 Author: Sebastian Paterson | [email protected]. Last modified: 2023-12-16 13:47

Arrangement of a new well and not only

Figure 5.1 Front view

Having chosen a suitable piece of log, we measure the distance between the posts and saw off part of the log so that the gap between the ends and the posts is 5-10 centimeters, on each side. Having thus obtained a drum of the required size, we nail a copper, brass or aluminum tape along its edges along the entire circumference (Figure 6). It is allowed to use iron (for example, packing tape), but in conditions of constant humidity, which is inevitable in a well, iron quickly rusts and breaks off. The drum upholstery with a metal tape is needed so that when the handle and tail are driven into it, and even during operation, the log-drum does not crack.

It's time to start making the very handle and ponytail mentioned above. For this purpose, it is best to use cuttings from common water pipes, such as heating or hot and cold water pipes in your city apartment.

Figure 6.

1. Drum;

2. Metallic tape

In order for the handle to be comfortable to use, each knee should be about 30 centimeters long. Although the sizes, depending on the specific situation, may vary. And the tail is of such length that, taking into account the thickness of the rack and the hammering into the drum, it protrudes 10 centimeters outward. However, this is not at all important.

One end of the handle and tail, the one that will be driven into the drum, should be flattened. This measure is necessary so that during operation they do not rotate in the drum-log around their axis.

When hammering the handle and tail into the drum, a natural question arises: to what depth should they hammer? There is no single recommendation here. We must focus on the fact that they sit very tightly.

Now all that remains is to put the drum in the goal posts. To do this, in the left rack you need to make a hole (drill, gouge, cut out) according to the size of the tail. And insert the handle into the right rack. This can be done in different ways: from above, from the side, using brackets (Figure 7).

Fig

. 7 1. Stand;

2. Staples

And so that the drum does not move horizontally between the racks, you should install the stops: either on the handle or on the tail from the inside and outside of the rack. In any of them, holes are drilled into which a bolt, cotter pin, nail or piece of wire is inserted.

If you take a piece of the corner and fix it with one end in the drilled hole in the handle, and on the other end fix it with screws on the drum, you get a double benefit. First, we have a limiter. Secondly, this is an additional measure to prevent the handle and tail from turning around its axis in the drum. It depends on where the corner is installed: on the handle or on the tail (Figure 8).

Figure: 8

1. Drum;

2. Corner;

3. Handle

After the gate is put in place and secured between the posts, a pre-knocked wooden frame is laid on the ring and securely connected to the posts. Since the frame is square, and the rings are mostly round (although there are rings and square, rectangular, six- and octagonal), there will be holes in the corners. In no case should they be sealed tightly, because these are natural and extremely necessary ventilation holes.

However, in order to prevent frogs, lizards, mice, insects and other small animals from falling into the well, the holes must be tightened with a fine mesh, not forgetting to leave a small hole for the hose and pump wires, which can be placed in the well (Figure 9).

Figure 9

1. Ring;

2. Wooden frame;

3. Fine mesh

After installing the frame on the sloped top of the racks, we nail or fasten the crossbars on both sides (Figure 5, position 1) and the frame of the house is ready. The back of it is completely sealed with boards, and an opening for the door is left on the front. It should be such that the bucket can be easily removed from under the drum.

Moreover, this opening should be shifted as much as possible to the right, so that, holding the handle of the gate with your right hand, you could easily pick up and pull the bucket out with your left hand. At the bottom of the opening on the frame, you need to lay a board of such a width that the bucket is stably held on it. This board must be upholstered with galvanized iron, otherwise it will quickly rot from constant dampness. Build a visor over the door.

Having installed the door, we sheathe the rest of the house with boards. And it is desirable to cover the whole house with galvanized iron or aluminum foil. And if they are not there, then you can use roofing iron. Although now there are a wide variety of roofing materials on sale. Just choose!

To complete (let's count!) The complete equipment of the well, there is very little left to do: fix the bucket, make the so-called "cat" and install a bench near the well, on which containers are placed to fill them with well water.

Let's start with the bucket, of course. First of all, it must be securely fastened. If you use a cord or rope to lift a bucket of water, then there are many options: tie the bucket as you see fit. When a cable with a braided end or a chain is used, then there is a simple and fairly durable method of fastening. Bending back the end of the bow of the bucket, remove it from the ear, put on a chain link or a ring of a cable, insert the bow in its original place and bend the end again. That's all for a short time.

Figures 10 and 11

1. "Cat";

2. Ring magnet

It is clear that you can get water from the well with any bucket, but here's the bad luck: it doesn't want to "voluntarily" sink. Half-sunken, it floats on the vibrating surface of the water and is not at all going to fill up to the top. You have to splash it several times before it is completely submerged in the water. And this takes time and energy. And the most important thing is that the water is constantly agitated.

To avoid this minor but annoying nuisance, a metal load must be attached to the edge of the bucket or by the ear - a weighty plate, bracket, bolt, and so on … In a word, any object (preferably stainless steel), heavy enough, can quickly turn the bucket in water … This can be achieved exclusively by experience.

It so happens that the bucket "spontaneously" jumps into the water. Maybe it was not securely fastened, maybe a cable or rope broke, but the bucket sank.

In this case, you need to catch it. For this very difficult and not very pleasant procedure, a hook-shaped device, in common parlance called a "cat", has been used.

It can be made in the form of a single fish hook or a tee (Figure 10). But if you put a ring magnet on the tee from any speaker of a suitable size (Figure 11), then the likelihood of catching the ill-fated bucket significantly increases.

And in conclusion, I will say about a bench or a bench. Call them whatever you like, I will use the term "bench". At first glance, it seems that there is nothing tricky here: he drove (dug in) several posts into the ground, nailed a board to them from above and the case, as they say, is "in the hat."

However, it only seems so, I repeat, at first glance. The catch is that no matter how you try to carefully pour water from a well bucket into a container standing on a bench, some of the water will certainly spill past it. This means that the soil under the bench will always be wet, and the wooden racks of the bench will quickly become unusable.

Figure 12

1. Rack;

2. Crossbar;

3. Boards;

4. Ground

You can, of course, put a portable bench at the well, or you can do without it at all … But I advise you to use a stationary bench. After all, it is not difficult to build it. It is only necessary to observe a few simple rules during its construction.

First of all, the uprights for the bench should be made of metal. Channel bars, angles, pipes, beams, strips and any other suitable material are suitable. This will greatly increase the durability of the bench. But here we must take into account one circumstance. The thing is that the overwhelming majority of soils in our region are very mobile, and therefore the racks of the bench, no matter what they are - wooden or metal - will be constantly squeezed out of the ground. And, as a result, the bench will warp every spring. Or, to put it more simply, strongly deviate from both vertical and horizontal positions with all the ensuing troubles. It is clear that you will hardly put a bucket on a lopsided bench. Is not it?

To avoid this undesirable phenomenon, I strongly recommend weld, bolt or wire a metal crossbar to the ends of the posts in the ground (Figure 12). And the longer and more massive it is, the less chance of deformation of the struts. You can rest assured that it works flawlessly. I personally experienced it more than once!

Probably, you can use such crossbars for wooden posts, but I have never used them, and therefore I do not presume to judge the effectiveness of the crossbar.

Although try it, what if you get something good? After all, only experience is able to prove the usefulness or uselessness of this or that experiment. So go for it! It is not for nothing that popular wisdom says: "The road will be mastered by the one walking …". That, perhaps, is all about the arrangement of the well.

We will talk about the care of wells and their repair another time.