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How To Plan And Build Paths On Your Site - 3
How To Plan And Build Paths On Your Site - 3

Video: How To Plan And Build Paths On Your Site - 3

Video: How To Plan And Build Paths On Your Site - 3
Video: Designing a website - Episode 1: Planning & site map! 2024, March
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A path, improperly planned, incorrectly and at the wrong time, can literally destroy the beautiful view from the window, negatively affect the overall landscape of the site. This warning applies not only to footpaths, but also to vehicle tracks. The material for them must be durable, but do not forget about its appearance.

Depending on the size of the personal plot, the number and length of tracks on it varies. Tracks for vehicles are usually considered a luxury inherent in large-scale properties of more than 10-15 acres. However, a car enthusiast who owns a small plot will need to take care of the access roads to the garage or parking lot if it is planned to keep the car on its own plot. All paths, along which vehicles will pass, and the place of its parking belong to the category of automobile paths. This means that in terms of loads, when choosing a coating, they are guided by the severity of the car. It is obvious.

Driveway
Driveway

When arranging a network of paths on a large or small area, it is equally often forgotten about another equally important position - the appearance or decorativeness of the path for vehicles. Among the owners of household plots, a persistent misconception is widespread that the saying "paths on a plot should form a single network" refers only to garden stitch paths, and transport stitches stand apart. But the transport lane 1.5-2 or even 3 meters wide, which often runs along the center of the site from the gate to the central building, is difficult to ignore.

The gaze from the window of the upper floor overlooking the garden will surely wiggle towards the parking lot: "How's the swallow (iron girl, the trough - underline the necessary)?", And only then, having calmed down, will return to the overview of the botanical beauty. In many ways, the aesthetics of perception is determined by the material of the roadbed, and it is the material for the tracks with increased operational load that is chosen on the basis of reliability and durability, often at the expense of decorativeness. As a result, even the shortest transport lane looks like a dull spot among pretty paths, which, day after day, negatively affects the viewer's subconscious. But the overwhelming majority of gardeners would like to see their carefully groomed area, if not an example of a dream come true of a paradise, then at least an anti-stress zone.

Of course, it is unprofitable to make a wide canvas, albeit personal, but highways from expensive decorative and not too durable materials. It is possible to solve the problem of creating a practical and stylistically unified network of paths on a site by creating smooth transitions from one surface to another: creating wavy or broken outlines of boundaries, a buffer layer of mixed materials, decorative blotches in the roadway. Seemingly obvious, this simple idea often turns out to be difficult to implement in practice, since when developing a site, paths for vehicles are usually laid first, and pedestrian paths are thought about after completion of construction and landscape work. Often, the laying time is separated by six months, or even more. The period during which not only new ideas appear, but materials also end. In this case, a variety of curbs on the sides of transport paths can come to the rescue, according to the texture and or color, in harmony with the pedestrian. In the context of the above, consider the most popular materials for the roadway.

Democratic but reliable

Driveway
Driveway

The cheapest, strongest and most durable concrete. As a topcoat, it is ideal in cases where maximum strength is required from the track (8-12 cm thickness is sufficient), and where its appearance does not matter much. Concrete screed is also used as a base for most decorative tile and stone coatings (5-8 cm thick). The durability of the web increases its reinforcement with a steel wire mesh (1 mm diameter). Prepared in advance and abundantly moistened "cake" of the base is poured with a concrete mixture purchased ready-made at the enterprise or mixed on the spot in a concrete mixer or by hand. For the first option, it should be clarified that the life of the solution is no more than 24 hours, after which the concrete will no longer flow, but fall in lumps. On the other hand,a path made of expired concrete with a bizarre relief of irregularities can attract originals. Industrial concrete is produced in various grades with the addition of plasticizers that regulate the time of setting, hardening and subsequent frost resistance of the web. Mineral dyes can also be added to the solution, at the request of the customer.

The option of self-production of concrete is an order of magnitude, or even two, cheaper, but more laborious. The pitfalls here are as follows. Dry mixes have a certain shelf life. Usually no more than six months, sometimes three months. The more additives the dry mixture contains, the more capricious the conditions of its storage. Using the good old self-mixing of cement, sand and water in proportions 1: 2 and water to a batter, it should be noted that an explanation always remains in brackets - this recipe is for finishing layers. In the lower ones, the sand content must be doubled.

To create an ideal monolith, only construction sand is suitable, river sand will have to be washed, dried, and then sifted from inclusions of organic matter. For better adhesion of the mortar, sand and cement are mixed dry and only then water is added, but not poured out of a bucket in a trickle, as shown in the figures in most "special" books, but sprayed from a hose. Since the solution must be evenly mixed in this case, you cannot do without a couple of assistants. When renting a concrete mixer, do not forget to clarify the time of mixing the solution in it: its excess, as well as its deficiency, negatively affects the durability of the coating. Table salt (1 kg: 25 kg dry mixture) is added to the mixture as the cheapest plasticizer for frost resistance of the canvas. Thanks to her, the canvas does not crack with a sharp drop in daily temperatures,although it may become covered with white spots. In a monolithic concrete pavement, every few meters (2-3) it is necessary to lay expansion joints so that due to thermal compression-expansion, the coating does not crack. Concreting in winter is not prohibited, you only need to warm up the mixing water. 18 … 25 ° С is the temperature of the solution, and taking into account the surrounding "minus" it is necessary to add water 20 degrees hotter. To prevent the concrete from cracking during uneven drying, after pouring it is covered with a matting, and in winter it is covered with sawdust. In the hot season, it is recommended to water the fabric with water for a week so that the upper layer does not dry out rather than the lower ones.so that due to thermal compression-expansion, the coating does not crack. Concreting in winter is not prohibited, you only need to warm up the mixing water. 18 … 25 ° С is the temperature of the solution, and taking into account the surrounding "minus" it is necessary to add water 20 degrees hotter. To prevent the concrete from cracking during uneven drying, after pouring it is covered with a matting, and in winter it is covered with sawdust. In the hot season, it is recommended to water the fabric with water for a week so that the upper layer does not dry out rather than the lower ones.so that due to thermal compression-expansion, the coating does not crack. Concreting in winter is not prohibited, you only need to warm up the mixing water. 18 … 25 ° С is the temperature of the solution, and taking into account the surrounding "minus" it is necessary to add water 20 degrees hotter. To prevent the concrete from cracking during uneven drying, after pouring it is covered with a matting, and in winter it is covered with sawdust. In the hot season, it is recommended to water the fabric with water for a week so that the upper layer does not dry out rather than the lower ones. In the hot season, it is recommended to water the fabric with water for a week so that the upper layer does not dry out rather than the lower ones. In the hot season, it is recommended to water the fabric with water for a week so that the upper layer does not dry out rather than the lower ones.

Driveway
Driveway

Recently, "artificial aging of materials" has come into vogue, and cracks in the canvas have begun to be welcomed as a chaotic ornament. Adherents of fashion should be warned that the above recommendations should be disregarded only in relation to the finishing layer, otherwise the diligently "aged" canvas may simply heave. Smooth or cracked concrete is equally criticized for its dull color. Sometimes mineral dyes are added to the finishing layer of concrete. But this method is good for narrow paths, while the road 2-3 meters wide risks becoming spotty in a couple of years due to uneven fading of the paint. It is advised to diversify the gray concrete surface with the help of ornamental or chaotic inclusions of gravel, pebbles, bricks or tiles. The easiest option:on the wet surface of the not yet solidified solution, use a rake to draw a wavy or geometric pattern.

It is fashionable to decorate asphalt surfaces of hot and cold laying with fragments of stones. Abroad, colored asphalt tinted with mineral additives in yellow, red, blue or green is in fashion. Colored asphalt is 2-3 times more expensive than ordinary gray and black, but the costs are justified by the long-term preservation of the brightness of the road surface.

When gravel is used as a covering, a limiter should be provided for it, for example, brick curbs, to prevent it from spreading over the surface. Usually gravel, in order to avoid it settling, is laid on the crushed stone of a larger fraction. As a base, a layer of coarse gravel mixed with sand is often laid, about 50 mm thick, and already on top - a layer of fine gravel 25 mm thick, and carefully compacted.

Beauty requires sacrifice

There are often cases when the main paths on the site are made of ready-made concrete slabs for road surfaces. In terms of functionality, there are two main types (by thickness) of concrete slabs. "Cast" slabs are made of cast concrete with a thickness of about 50 mm. They are designed for small and medium loads, their decorativeness is especially valuable - a variety of shapes and colors. For paving surfaces such as the carriageway, "hydraulically compacted" slabs of specially compacted concrete are best suited. Their thickness should be proportional to the size - otherwise the tile will not adhere well and will "walk" due to jamming from the sides. The best thickness for tiles is 100x100, 100x200 - 80 mm, minimum - 60 mm. The thinner the tiles, the more solid the base they need to support the weight of the vehicle.

Driveway
Driveway

Since the range of sizes, shapes, colors and facets of the slabs is very wide, ready-made concrete slabs are ideal materials for lining large areas, especially when they need to be decorative. The most popular slab size is 450x450 mm, although slabs are available in both larger and smaller sizes. On sale you can find slabs, the dimensions of which vary from a square with a side of 90 mm to a rectangle with dimensions of 675x450 mm. Hexagonal and round slabs are also available. Free combinations of shapes and colors allow you to create an intricate mosaic of pavement.

Plates are successfully combined with other materials. Inserts made of river pebbles, bricks, colored stones look original, perfectly combined with lamps mounted in the pavement. Even broken slabs will be used. Their chaotic pattern will make the pavement artistically unique, and the strength characteristics will not reduce the reliability of the roadway. Clinker bricks and tiles made of clinker (burnt clay) are also universal - a material that is much more expensive, but incomparably more durable than ordinary bricks (building bricks are not used on the ground, since they are destroyed after 4-6 years).

The most gorgeous and practically eternal "king of materials" for paving is granite. In addition to the fastness of color and texture, it has another advantage. Unlike concrete, clinker and even other stone tiles (eg sandstone), granite paving stones can even be laid on a sand cushion. However, when using such heavy materials as stone and slabs on loose soils with a high sand content, the possibility of their subsidence should be prevented. To do this, you can either increase the thickness of the crushed stone base, or lay wooden or plastic shields. But these are temporary measures. It is preferable to use geotextiles - lay one layer on the ground, and the second on gravel under the sand. This option is simpler, cheaper and more efficient.

Pseudo-arc

For small plots, each square meter of which is of particular value to owners and, ideally, should be landscaped, the following type of paving of garden paths, driveways and other sites may be optimal. This is a lawn grate. It is a honeycomb (honeycomb) lattice panel 50x50 cm in size, the side latches of which allow you to collect a continuous canvas of the required outlines. Placed on a compacted base (the thickness of which depends on the composition of the soil - see above), the grating is capable of supporting the weight of vehicles (up to 200 t / m2). At the same time, a lawn made of unpretentious sedum, sedum, saxifrage, Veronica and Alpine grains will feel good in cozy combs. It is not threatened with trampling, since the load from pedestrians and cars "lies" on the panels. Waterlogging and soil erosion are eliminated as a bonus.

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