Miniature And Indoor Roses

2024 Author: Sebastian Paterson | [email protected]. Last modified: 2023-12-16 13:47

Growing miniature and indoor roses

Temperature regime and lighting of indoor roses

Indoor roses, like roses of other species, belong to the Rosaceae family. For growing in a residential or office environment, the so-called miniature and indoor roses are most suitable.

They, in any case, are not as capricious as the others, and they can more easily endure life within four walls. But there are certain rules and secrets for successful cultivation. The main secret is bright diffused light and cool fresh air. Indoor roses grow well at temperatures from 10 to 25 ° C, easily tolerate its daily fluctuations and small frosts. They just can't stand overheating. Place them on a well-lit window and at the same time make sure that it is not too hot there.

This requires regular airing and shading of the pot from hot sunlight. The soil in the pot should not be heated. The best option is a west or east window. Additional difficulties arise on the southern windowsill: frequent watering due to the rapid drying out of the soil, mandatory ventilation. And even if these conditions are met, the rose will suffer from overheating in the summer, shedding buds and leaves, and give a weak growth. The opened flowers will last only a couple of days. Therefore, the south window is suitable only at other times of the year. On the northern window, you can water less often, do not be afraid of overheating, but here you cannot do without additional lighting.

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Watering and feeding indoor roses

The second important condition is regular abundant watering and frequent fertilizing with fertilizers. Drying out of the earthen coma is simply unacceptable: this can lead to the death of the plant. During active growth and especially flowering, watering should be abundant, but without stagnation of water in the pan. Approximately half an hour after watering, unabsorbed water must be drained from the pan. Roses in small pots should be watered more often because the soil dries out faster. In sunny weather, watering is daily, in cloudy - somewhat less often, about once every two days, but it all depends on the specific conditions.

Roses are very demanding for feeding. This is due to the almost continuous flowering, which takes a lot of energy. Therefore, starting from early spring to autumn, roses are fed once a week with organic or mineral fertilizers, alternately. It is very convenient to use liquid flower fertilizers for this purpose, of which there are many on sale. In the spring, foliar feeding will also have a beneficial effect, 3-4 is enough with an interval of 10-12 days.

Another important point is air humidity. Many sources indicate that indoor roses need high humidity. But from personal experience, I was convinced that roses grow quite safely even without spraying. A couple of times a month they can take a shower to wash off the dust, and that's it. But high humidity and frequent spraying can contribute to the development of fungal diseases.

Now consider caring for a room rose throughout the year. Let's start with the awakening of the buds and the appearance of young shoots in early spring. They signal the end of dormancy and the beginning of an active growing season. This means that the time has come for feeding, pruning and placing on a sunny window (if wintering took place in a separate cool room).

The plant should be carefully fed with a solution of mineral fertilizers, after spilling the soil with clean water. If the rose has just been planted in fresh soil, then feeding is not needed yet. With the appearance of young foliage, it will be possible to carry out foliar feeding. The branches are cut, which stimulates the rapid growth of young shoots, on which such desired flowers will form. Further care consists in observing the above rules.

With the onset of stable heat, it is advisable to send indoor roses to the open air for the whole summer - to a balcony or loggia, to a garden. This has a very beneficial effect on the general condition of roses and promotes long and abundant flowering until autumn. If this is not possible, then you need to place them on the east or west window, where it is not so hot.

Pruning indoor roses

With the appearance of buds, you can remove the first two or three, so that further flowering is more abundant. Fading roses must be cut in time to the first leaf, so as not to weaken the plant by setting fruit. Moreover, it is better to cut it before the flowers bloom completely, before the stamens appear, and they themselves begin to shed the petals. All fallen and yellowed leaves, drying branches should be removed immediately to avoid the appearance of diseases. Fading shoots are also cut periodically to stimulate further growth.

At the end of summer, you should pay attention to the fact that fertilizers for feeding do not contain nitrogen, since the plant is preparing for a dormant period. This period lasts from about mid-autumn to February. If the roses were in the fresh air in the summer, then around the end of August and the beginning of September they are brought into the room. At this time, fertilization is completely stopped, watering is gradually reduced and the plants are placed in a cool place with a temperature of up to + 10 ° C.

In such conditions, the leaves begin to turn yellow and fall off, the plant enters a state of dormancy. After that, the pot with the rose should be placed in a cool place with a temperature of + 3 … 6 ° C. In urban conditions, a glazed and insulated loggia is quite suitable, where in winter the air temperature does not drop below + 2 … 4 ° С. After the leaves have fallen off, watering is almost completely stopped, only occasionally they are slightly moistened with an earthen lump, because the complete drying out of the soil can be disastrous. The stems are shortened, leaving hemp up to 10 cm in height with several buds.

In February, roses are transferred from a cool room to a warm one (+ 10 … 12 ° С) for a gradual awakening. It is advisable to first transplant them into fresh fertile soil. With the appearance of young leaves, the plants are placed on a well-lit windowsill in a warm room. Now they need to be watered abundantly, fertilized, ventilated. And with the arrival of stable heat - again to fresh air.

If it is not possible to provide a cool wintering, then you will have to provide additional lighting and the coolest window sill (preferably not higher than 15 ° C). With this wintering option, you need to especially carefully monitor the condition of the roses, often spray, protect from hot air from heating devices.

It is in the dry warm conditions of the winter period that the appearance of a spider mite is most likely. Top dressing is carried out about once every 2-3 weeks with a weakly concentrated fertilizer solution. But if the winter is successfully survived, then in March the first buds will appear on the roses. As soon as the buds start to grow at the end of winter, you need to prune the roses. 4-6 well-ripened branches are left on the plant, shortening them to 5-8 cm, so that each has 3-5 buds. In this case, the upper bud should be directed not inside the future bush, but outward. After that, the plant is transplanted into fresh soil and left until young shoots appear.

When pruning roses, it should be remembered that it is enough to shorten miniature species by one third. But tall indoor roses are cut more radically, leaving several buds, as described above.

Planting indoor roses requires fertile, nutrient-rich soil. An approximate mixture is made up of humus, peat and sand in a ratio of 2: 2: 1. Good drainage is required at the bottom of the pot. It is useful to add pieces of charcoal and a little potassium-rich wood ash to the soil.

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Reproduction of indoor roses

Indoor roses propagate quite easily by cuttings. To do this, from May to September, cuttings are cut from matured twigs. It is best to cut a stalk from the middle part of a thin, faded branch, leaving 2-4 buds on it. In this case, the lower cut is made oblique 1 cm below the kidney (the kidney should be directed upwards), and the upper cut is straight, 0.5 cm above the upper kidney. The cuttings are rooted in water or in a mixture of peat (or light soil) with sand.

Freshly cut cuttings are immediately placed in water or sand, because even short-term drying reduces rooting. Rooting in water has one interesting feature: the water poured for the first time cannot be changed, you can only add it as it decreases in the jar.

Even if it turns green, never pour it out! Oddly enough, cuttings root perfectly in this way!

After regrowth of roots 1-2 cm long, the cuttings must be planted in the soil. The root collar is not buried; it remains at the soil level. The roots are very fragile, so they are very carefully placed and covered with soil. After watering and lightly squeezing the ground, the pot with the handle is placed in a bright place protected from direct sunlight. After a couple of weeks, the buds start to grow.

When rooting cuttings in the sand, they are buried 1 cm so that the bud sticks out slightly on the surface, watered, squeezed around the sand and covered with glass or film. Placed in a warm, bright place where the temperature does not drop below 18 ° C. Otherwise, the rooting percentage drops sharply.

Hand-made propagation of indoor roses by cuttings allows you to get plants adapted specifically to the conditions of a given room, which further simplifies their cultivation. Indeed, in essence, a rose is a street plant, and for self-made seedlings, the problem of adaptation disappears.

Pests and diseases of indoor roses

Pests and diseases, unfortunately, do not bypass indoor roses. Aphids often settle on the tender tips. If it is not enough, then you can simply collect insects by hand. Otherwise, it is better to use special drugs, of which there are a lot on sale, for example, Intavir. "Grandma's" methods such as soapy water or garlic, in my opinion, are not effective enough, in any case, I gave up on this long ago, without getting the desired result.

It is very difficult to prevent the appearance of spider mites, especially during the autumn-winter period. He just loves indoor roses no less than an amateur grower and is able to destroy a plant in a matter of days! And here, for sure, nothing will help, except for special preparations such as phytoverm, actellik, etc. But since it is always easier to prevent the disease than to cure it, I can recommend that preventive spraying of all domestic plants be carried out twice a year, for example, with phytoverm or something similar.

Stagnation of moist air around roses and dampness lead to the occurrence of fungal diseases: powdery mildew, gray rot, rust and others. Against this, special fungicides such as topaz or foundation are used. Therefore, it is better to avoid thickened plantings, cut out faded shoots in a timely manner, water the roses without wetting the leaves, loosen the soil after watering, and regularly ventilate the room.

It should be remembered that the treatment of roses with any preparations is carried out outside living quarters, always in a place protected from sunlight. After processing, the roses are left there for about a day and only then are they brought back to the room.