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Prune Your Garden Without Mistakes
Prune Your Garden Without Mistakes

Video: Prune Your Garden Without Mistakes

Отличия серверных жестких дисков от десктопных

Operation pruning for the sake of harvest

As experience shows, many gardeners are either not carried out pruning of fruit trees and berry handicraft Cove, or do it poorly, allowing a very serious error, which results in a significant decrease in yield.

Based on this, I want to show in this article the most typical mistakes made when pruning and give recommendations on how to avoid them. It must be remembered that pruning is a kind of surgery, and it is important to carry it out so that the wounds overgrow faster. All cuts that are performed during pruning can be divided into three types: "kidney", "ring" and "fork".

Cutting patterns for pruning fruit trees in the garden
Cutting patterns for pruning fruit trees in the garden

Cutting schemes for pruning fruit trees in the garden:

A - "to the bud"; B - "on the ring"; B - "for branching";

1 - wrong; 2 is correct.

Kidney cut

Branches are cut on the bud when shortening (see Fig. A). When pruning the crowns of young trees in this way, it is better to use a garden knife, and pruning shears are pruned older trees and shrubs with shoots up to 2.5 cm in diameter.In this case, the cut should be started from the opposite side of the branch at the same horizontal level from its base (attachment point). In order to do this correctly, the cutting surface of the knife or secateurs should be positioned to the branch at an angle of about 45 °, and the blade should be directed so that the end of the cut is 2 mm above the top of the bud. If the cut is higher, then the shoot that will develop from this bud will deviate greatly to the side, and if it is lower, the bud may die. In fig. And (pos. 1) the cuts were made incorrectly and only in position 2 the cut was correct. Similar designations (pos. 1 - incorrect, and pos.2 - correct) are shown in Fig. B and C.

Ring cut

This cut is done when the branch is removed completely, that is, when thinning the crown (see Fig. B). Such cuts of branches with a diameter of more than 3 cm are more convenient to carry out not with a knife, but with a garden saw-hacksaw. When cutting an entire branch, the difficulty lies in the fact that you cannot cut a branch very close to the trunk, but you cannot leave too large a stump. In the first case, when the branch is cut parallel to the trunk, a long wound is obtained, which overgrows poorly and for a long time, and in the second, dead wood hemp can serve as a source of tree diseases or rot, forming a hollow. Therefore, when cutting out a branch, the cut must be made so that it passes exactly along the annular sag. To correctly determine the location of the cut, you need to mentally draw two lines: one parallel to the trunk, the other perpendicular to the branch to be removed. The angle formed by the lines is split in half,there should be approximately the place of the cut. In this case, the branch is first sawed from the bottom and only then - from the top, so as not to rip off the bark. Large cuts before putting putty with garden pitch are leveled with a garden knife.

Forking cut

Such a cut is made when there is a need for trimming for translation (see Fig. B). The cut is performed according to the principle similar to the "kidney" cut. The cut is made at right angles to the cut off part of the branch. Removal is usually done strictly at the point of branching. Only when the branch to be removed is significantly thicker than the one to which the transfer was made, when pruning for branching, a protective link is temporarily left - a stump up to 20 cm long. It protects the bark at the base of the branch from drying out and freezing. After thickening of the left branch, the stump is cut out.

Wounds from pruning (especially large ones on the trunk and skeletal branches) should be immediately covered with garden varnish or oil paint based on natural drying oil.

In conclusion, I would like to give examples confirming the benefits of correct pruning of fruit plants. In my garden there was an apple tree that did not even bloom for a long time. After proper serious pruning using all three of its species, the very next year this apple tree blossomed and gave the first harvest of fruits. A similar operation helped to make one of the plums bear fruit. This convincingly proves that this kind of garden treatment is effective and deserves to be extended to other garden areas. You should only avoid such cuts as in position 1 in the proposed figures.

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