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Roses Cuttings Rules
Roses Cuttings Rules

Video: Roses Cuttings Rules

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Video: How to Grow Roses From Cuttings Fast and Easy | Rooting Rose Cuttings with a 2 Liter Soda Bottle 2023, February
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A rosary from your seedlings

Rooted cutting of a hybrid tea rose of the first year of cuttings in a greenhouse
Rooted cutting of a hybrid tea rose of the first year of cuttings in a greenhouse

Rooted cutting of a hybrid tea rose of the

first year of cuttings in a greenhouse

There are many ways to cut roses. But they are all very laborious, and there is no one hundred percent guarantee that the cuttings will take root. Roses are usually cut in mid-July.

Such roses do not form powerful roots by winter and very often freeze out in the first winter. I quite accidentally learned to cut roses with one hundred percent survival rate and without much difficulty.

Cutting climbing roses

We remove the shelter from the roses in April, when the temperatures are above zero. Before tying the rose to the support, we cut out the extra shoots so as not to overload the plant. On each climbing rose plant, we leave no more than seven shoots. We shorten each shoot by 1/3. The lateral branches of this shoot are also shortened by a third.

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It is a pity to throw away the branches that remain after pruning, and I decided to try to root them. In the first year, she rooted branches with dormant buds. And in one year, the buds were with the first leaves already hatching. I tried to root them too. It turned out that they rooted much faster, and not a single cuttings died.

I root the cuttings in a greenhouse (made of cellular polycarbonate, which cannot be disassembled for the winter). It is better to take cuttings not thick, but thin - they take root better. The distance between the plants is 30 cm (not less) - so it is more convenient to dig out the rooted and grown plants later.

I leave 5-6 buds on the handle. Under the lower kidney, I make an oblique cut with a sharp knife. Along the edge of the garden, so as not to interfere with other plants, I dig small holes. In each I put two tablespoons of river sand, water it with HB 101 solution (plant growth stimulator) - 2 drops per 1 liter of water. Making a hole in the sand. I put the stalk there, so that the two lower buds are in the sand. Sprinkle with sand, water with the same solution. I put on a five-liter plastic bottle without a bottom (the lid should be on top). I do not spray the plant. There is enough moisture there.

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The cuttings planted this spring are well-rooted by June
The cuttings planted this spring are well-rooted by June

The stalk, planted this spring, has

thoroughly rooted by June

Once a week I water the cuttings with HB 101 solution. Cuttings take root very quickly. An indicator that they have taken root is the rapid growth of the shoots. As soon as the shoots grow and reach the walls of the bottle, I unscrew and remove the cap from it.

One week, the sprouts get used to the surrounding air. After a week, I raise the lower part of the bottle (I put a pebble under its edge). And after two weeks I took off the bottle at all. From that moment on, once a week I feed the plants with a manure solution or liquid fertilizer for roses.

In the first half of July, plants reach a height of 40-50 cm - this is the time for planting roses from a greenhouse. It is not worth keeping them in a greenhouse longer, since their roots go deep into the soil, and then they can be damaged during transplantation, and the plant will take root for a long time in a new place.

I transplant roses in cloudy weather, in the evening, to a previously prepared place. To do this, I dig a hole 50x50 cm (as much as possible). When digging a hole, I fold the top layer of soil (onto the bayonet of a shovel) to one side, and the bottom layer of soil to the other side. At the bottom of the pit I put rotted manure (fresh manure can be used, since the plant will not use it this year), compost, superphosphate and soil from the upper layer of the pit. I mix everything well.

All the same goes to the upper part of the pit (only rotted manure!) And the soil from the lower layer. I also add the AVA universal fertilizer there. I mix everything. I water it with the solution "Baikal EM 1" - 100 ml per 10 liters of water. The landing site is ready. It is advisable to do this 2-3 weeks before replanting roses in order to have time to water the soil several times with a solution of "Baikal EM 1", since on top is the soil removed from the bottom layer of the pit, and it is not enriched with beneficial bacteria.

Before planting a rose from a greenhouse to a prepared place, I dig a hole there, according to the size of a seedling. It is better to tie the branches of a rose in several places along the entire length so that they do not scratch or interfere. In order not to damage the roots of the rose and plant a plant with an earthen clod, I do this: I cut off the bottom and the upper part from a plastic bottle (5-6 liters). It is better to have smooth rather than grooved sides.

It turns out a plastic cylinder. I carefully put this cylinder on the plant so as not to damage the long branches of the rose and start pressing it into the ground. Since the material from which the bottle is made is very thin, in order not to spoil it when pressed, I shovel the earth outside the cylinder with a garden shovel. Deepen the cylinder completely. Then I dig under the cylinder with a garden shovel and take it out. I put the shovel on thick plastic and take it out. I carry the cylinder with the plant to the prepared hole.

This wonderful flower of hybrid tea rose also bloomed on the cuttings of the first year of propagation
This wonderful flower of hybrid tea rose also bloomed on the cuttings of the first year of propagation

This wonderful flower of hybrid tea rose

also bloomed on the cuttings of the first year of propagation.

I place the cylinder in the hole and carefully pull out the polyethylene support. I fill the cylinder of the bottle with earth to the very side. Then, very carefully, with rotational movements, I remove the bottle cylinder from the pit. If it is grooved, it will be more difficult to do.

I water the plant with Energena solution (1 bottle 10 ml per 10 liters of water). I tie each whip of roses to a support and close it with a covering material. I do this in order to protect the rose from direct sunlight, to which it is not yet accustomed (in the greenhouse it was under the double cover of the greenhouse and the bottle). I water the rose as the soil dries, and once a week - always with HB 101 solution or Energen.

After three weeks (preferably in cloudy weather) I remove the covering material from the plant. Then, in front of the plant, from the sunny side, I pull the same covering material onto the supports. As a result, my rose is in the air, and the sun does not shine on it.

In the first half of August, I remove the covering material completely. I continue to water the plant with HB 101 solution or "Krezacin" once every two weeks until the end of August. I no longer carry out fertilizing with fertilizers in August. The shoots should not grow, but ripen and prepare for winter. I cover seedlings for the winter, like all roses.

Cutting other roses

In floribunda roses, ground cover, hybrid tea, bush roses, we cut out in spring only shoots damaged after winter. Cuttings from these roses are cut from branches intact by frost. You need to take the thinnest branches. They take root better and faster.

The rooting process is the same as for climbing roses. The difference is that I plant hybrid tea roses and floribunda roses from a greenhouse only in the third year. They are more capricious, and their roots take longer to grow. If they are planted in the first year, they will die during the winter, since the roots are still short, in winter they freeze out. Even hilling and covering the plant does not help.

Cutting roses from a presented bouquet

Cutting and hybrid tea roses, which are presented in bouquets for the holidays. Only this process is lengthy. If the donated flowers were in the store for a long time, and aspirin or other drugs were added to the water there so that the rose lasted a long time until it was bought, then such cuttings die on the fifth day. The lower part of the plant turns black.

It is better to throw out such a rose right away - there will be no sense from it. And do not cut a rose with a slightly wrinkled stem - it will also die in the near future. The desired stem of the rose should be dark green, smooth, buds visible in the leaf axils, and the leaves should be dark green. The best flowers for grafting are those presented on March 8th. They did not have time to lie on the counter, and in the spring the plants take root better.

This beauty last year in June was in at bouquet, and a year later she herself gives flowers
This beauty last year in June was in at bouquet, and a year later she herself gives flowers

This beauty last year in June was in a gift bouquet,

and a year later she herself gives flowers

I cut a flower from such a rose on a short "leg" and put it in the water separately. The remaining branch for the prevention of pests is mine under warm water with laundry soap. At the bottom, I make an oblique cut with a very sharp knife or razor. I put the handle in a glass. I put on a transparent plastic bag on top. I tie the bag so that there is a small hole for air and greenhouse conditions for the plant are not created. I put the handle under the fluorescent lamp.

Old leaves of the plant may crumble - this is normal. The main thing is to remove them from the package in time. After a while, sprouts will appear from the dormant buds. The leaves on such sprouts are first reddish, then they turn light yellow, then light green. When the leaves on the shoot turn dark green (like the parent leaf), the shoot is ready for cuttings.

With a razor, I cut off such a shoot-cutting from the stem and put it in a dark-colored medicine bottle (in a dark container, the roots will appear faster). I tried to cut a stalk with a heel - a piece of the mother plant, but noticed that such cuttings take longer to root. I put on a small plastic bag on top and do not tie it, but throw it on. I put the handle under the fluorescent lamp. A little HB 101 ready-made solution can be added to the water.

After about one and a half to two months, a light-colored thickening forms at the end of the cutting. This is a callus formed, on which roots will subsequently appear. When the roots appear (at least 1 cm), I plant the cutting in a pot. I put a plastic bag on top, but do not tie it. After 2-3 weeks I remove the package. Once a week I water the plant with HB 101 or Krezacin.

In the first half of June, I plant a plant with a clod of earth in a greenhouse. I don't cover it with anything. I feed the plant in the same way as other cuttings of roses planted in spring. If a rose has buds, then I cut them off, as it should take root well before winter. Sometimes I really want to look at a flower. Therefore, I let it bloom and immediately cut it off.

Before frosts (in late autumn), I sprinkle the rose with dry peat, cover it with spruce branches, cover it with sawdust, and put a film on top, without pressing it to the ground, so that the air gets inside. When frost settles, I put a small layer of snow on top of the film. I take off the shelter at the end of March, when positive temperatures are established outside. A rooted stalk grows in a greenhouse for three years.

Several cuttings are obtained from one donated flower. Sometimes the parent plant (which was a flower) also develops callus and roots. But such a plant should not be planted. It takes a very long time to take root and falls out in the first winter. All his power will be directed to the growth of side shoots and the formation of buds on them, and not to rooting. Therefore, it is best to root cuttings that have grown from the buds of this shoot.

And this is how a stalk of a rooted tea-hybrid rose looks like, which I brought from Crimea, in the fifth year of his life
And this is how a stalk of a rooted tea-hybrid rose looks like, which I brought from Crimea, in the fifth year of his life

And this is how a stalk of a rooted tea-hybrid rose, which I brought from the Crimea, in the fifth year of his life looks like

You can root cuttings from flowers donated in the fall, if their buds themselves in a bouquet have started to grow. I was presented with a white rose in October, which already had sprouts. I did everything in the same way as described above, but added a ready-made solution of HB 101 to the water. Throughout the winter, the stalk stood under a fluorescent lamp. The leaves on the lateral shoots did not darken for a long time. I cut one stalk at the beginning of January. The rest will be in mid-March. The callus had already formed in the first cutting by the beginning of March.

Of course, grafted roses are more powerful and bloom profusely in the first year. But you have to constantly monitor them so that the wild does not grow. A self-rooted rose, if its stems freeze or grow cold during the winter (as happened with me after the winter of 2010), quickly recovers, and it does not have wild growth. By the way, the flowers of a self-rooted rose are much brighter than those of its “parent”, which was grown in a greenhouse, and not in the sun under the open sky.

Roses with dark flowers - red, burgundy, dark pink - take root best. Roses with light-colored flowers - white, yellow, light orange - take root worst of all. But in the summer of 2010, my roses with light flowers took root surprisingly well and quickly. Perhaps they had enough sunlight.

Of course, such grafting is a long process. But if you were presented with a bouquet of roses - why not try to root them? Moreover, this way you will have a memory of the person who gave them.

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