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Video: Harvest Technology For Growing Garden Strawberries
Summer joy - strawberries
For many years I have been growing garden strawberries. This is my favorite garden culture. I learned many of her secrets and learned how to get good harvests of fragrant berries any summer.
I'll tell you about my experience, maybe it will help novice gardeners in mastering an interesting and very useful plant.
To grow a good strawberry crop, three important conditions must be met.
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First, work well with the ground
I grow strawberries on ridges 80 cm wide, their length is arbitrary. The distance between the ridges is 25-30 cm. All of them are edged with wood or slate. A thick layer of sawdust is poured between them so that there are no weeds. Every 3-4 years I do the drainage of the garden. In the first half of it I dig a pit 2-3 bayonets of a shovel deep. I drop the earth to the other half. At the bottom I put large brushwood from the forest, on top of small brushwood, old things, newspapers, etc. I sprinkle it with superphosphate and cover it with earth. Then I repeat everything in the second half of the ridge.
Then I put humus or compost on the ridge, 4-6 buckets per 1m², sprinkle with earth, superphosphate, fluff lime (depending on the acidity of the soil). I dig deeply and thoroughly. Here the bed is ready. In the spring I will plant cabbage on it. Next year, in the spring, after cabbage, I will sow oats and rye there. When they throw away the spikelets, I cut off the greens, chop them and scatter them over the garden. After that, I dig it deeply, embedding all the green mass in the soil.
The next year, in the spring, I again add humus or compost, sprinkle it with superphosphate, ash, and carefully dig it deep. I plant marigolds on this bed. In the fall I bury them in the ground. The next year I plant onions in the spring. It ripens early. Having removed the onions, I prepare a bed for strawberries.
So, let's sum up the work with the land. In the fall - drainage. In the first year in spring, cabbage grows there. Second spring - oats and rye. In the third year in the spring - marigolds. The fourth year in spring is the onion. And in the same year, in the fall, I plant strawberries there.
After harvesting the onions, I carefully weed the ridge, although there are almost no weeds there. I add humus or compost, sprinkle with ash and superphosphate. I dig deep, level the ridge. She's ready, well-nourished. Oats, rye, marigolds have minimized the possibility of strawberry diseases. Deep cultivation of the soil creates excellent conditions for its growth, development, fruiting.
With the deepening of the arable layer, with the improvement of the physical properties of the soil, the harvest of strawberries increases: the more fully it is provided with nutrition, moisture, the healthier it is. Its drought and frost resistance sharply increases. After such preparation of the soil, strawberries need not fertilize for four years. I just make sure there are no weeds.
You will say that this is a very long preparatory crop rotation. And if you need to plant the desired variety right away? Then choose a place where potatoes and strawberries did not grow. Refuel the ridge well (as mentioned above), plant strawberries and immediately begin to engage in crop rotation.
The second condition is seedlings
For seedlings I take away a bed 50-60 cm wide. The length is arbitrary. The ridge is well prepared. In the fall, in the middle of it I plant a mustache at a distance of 10-15 cm. I take the mustache from the most productive bushes. I usually mark them with pegs during the harvest season. Thus, I am engaged in improving the variety, clone selection.
Uterine bushes grow in the middle of the bed. I remove all peduncles from them. The mustaches on the right and left of the uterine bushes are carefully laid out and pinched. They quickly take root, do not thicken, because I myself have laid them out in the right places along the garden bed. By mid-August, the ridge looks beautiful: in the middle is a row of powerful green mother bushes, and on the right and left there are strong strawberry bushes. The planting material is ready. A bed 1.5-2 m long can give 300-400 bushes of excellent seedlings.
Now I'm starting to land. Along the ridge at a distance of 20 cm from the side, I dig a trench 15-20 cm deep. I put humus or compost, ash into it, sprinkle it with superphosphate. I mix everything well with the earth.
Now I am preparing the planting material. I water the mother bed abundantly. With a sharp knife, I cut out a 10x10x10 cm cube with a strawberry bush. Carefully, so that the earth does not crumble, I put it on the tray. Having cut out the required number of cubes, I water the planting trench abundantly. I plant cubes with plants in the mud at a distance of 15-20 cm from each other. I sprinkle the plantings with earth from the sides of the trench and water well from the watering can. Thus, two rows of excellent strawberry bushes are planted in the garden. Every other day I loosen the soil there. The strawberries are planted.
With such a planting, it does not spend energy on survival, but continues to actively grow. Before winter, leafy green bushes leave well. In the spring, as always, I cut off old leaves and loosen them. I have not fertilized these plants for four years.
Here the strawberries threw out flower stalks, blossomed and berries began to pour a little. At this time, I do the most important thing. Along each row, on the right and left, on props in the form of slingshots, I install plastic pipes with a diameter of 3-5 cm and a length of 2-3 m. If there are no pipes, you can use slats. I carefully lay out peduncles on these pipes. Thus, the flower stalks with berries do not come into contact with the ground.
But that's not all. As soon as the berries begin to turn a little pink, I cut out two-thirds of the leaves in each bush with a pruner. Peduncles with berries lie on the pipes, are not shaded by excess foliage, are well ventilated and mature actively. The spectacle is amazing! Almost no greenery - only rows of large red berries. After harvesting, I remove the supports and pipes. With this technology, I don't have rotten berries. After all, it is known that gray rot can carry up to 80% of the crop. My berries are bright, clean, healthy.
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And the third condition is grade
Such a technology for growing strawberries also requires special varieties. The variety should be high-yielding, pest and disease resistant, with good taste. But the most important thing is that it must have a high peduncle. There are many excellent varieties, but their flower stalks are short.
I selected three varieties: Junia Smides, Nida, Lord. All three varieties meet these qualities. Favorite variety is Junia Smides. It has a powerful semi-spreading bush, medium-sized leaves are dark green. About 20% of the berries are very large. Once I watched my granddaughter when she ate a large berry, and counted how many times she would bite her. Six times!
The berries are bright red. The pulp is beautiful, juicy, tender, sweet with sourness. Berries keep well during transportation. Can ripen in the refrigerator. The yield is very high, the bushes are covered with berries. Ripening is extended, which allows you to easily process the crop.
And another amazing feature of Junia Smides. If you laid a bed, as mentioned above, then 3-4 years old strawberries of this particular variety can not be fed, fertilized or watered! Otherwise, there will be a lot of leaves and whiskers, and the harvest will plummet.
In addition to these wonderful qualities, Junia Smides has another one. It tolerates our unpredictable winters well - it does not grow out and does not freeze. Most importantly, it is a good plantation variety.
Thus, if you use this technology, your strawberry plantation will only delight you. Even in the wettest and driest years, as usual, I reaped a high harvest without loss.