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Gooseberry Bush Formation. Increasing The Yield Of Gooseberries
Gooseberry Bush Formation. Increasing The Yield Of Gooseberries

Video: Gooseberry Bush Formation. Increasing The Yield Of Gooseberries

Отличия серверных жестких дисков от десктопных
Video: Growing Gooseberries from Planting to Harvest 2023, January

Secrets of "North Russian grapes". Part 2

Read the previous part of the article: Gooseberries: beneficial properties, growing conditions

Gooseberry bush
Gooseberry bush

A hybrid of trellis and classics

When grown on a trellis, it is assumed that the number of branches is limited, and the bush itself becomes as a result flat enough and there can be no non-vertical branches in it. This is not very good because it is a pity to remove good horizontal branches, which for some reason cannot be directed vertically, and the yield is slightly lower than it could be.

Therefore, having experimented with different trellises, I somewhat modified the trellis technology, setting myself the goal - in the same space that an average gooseberry bush occupies, to form a larger number of fruiting shoots in order to increase the yield, without forgetting either about light or aeration of the bush.

As a result, the bushes began to occupy the maximum possible space both vertically and horizontally.

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So, about the features of the formation:

  • at the initial stage of development (the first two years) I form a bush in the usual way;
  • in the third year - the same as usual: a reliable square fence with a height of 30-35 cm is installed around the bush (you cannot do this with slats, since a large number of branches with berries cannot withstand any slats), as a result of which the branches are evenly distributed inside her; if necessary, part of the branches is tied up;
  • in the fourth year, a wooden structure with a height of 2 m, resembling the letter P, is installed inside this fence, to which part of the suitable shoots is tied;
  • in the fifth year, another fence grows around the bush with a diameter much larger than the first and a height of 50-60 cm; all branches are evenly redistributed: some are tied to a vertical trellis, some lie on the lower fence, some on the top.

I named the heights of all wooden structures approximately, because here you need to look at each variety and each plant separately. As a result, the main goal must be achieved: the formation of a large number of branches with good illumination and ventilation.

I will name the positive aspects of my method of forming a gooseberry:

  • increasing the yield per unit area at least twice, which makes it possible to reduce the area allotted for this crop;
  • improving the quality of berries: they are larger and sweeter as a result of better illumination of the shoots;
  • growing stronger shoots, which are already initially much more resistant to diseases and are able to form a larger crop;
  • spectacular appearance of the bushes: at the time of flowering and fruiting, they look at least fabulous, and everyone who passes by admires them.

Do not forget about the negative aspects:

  • this technique cannot be used for non-frost-resistant gooseberry varieties;
  • even distribution and tying of branches takes a lot of time;
  • as a result of the presence of a large number of branches in the bush, the pruning process becomes more laborious and dangerous (from the point of view of getting an excess dose of thorns on the hands and other parts of the body).

Despite the presence of certain difficulties in formation, now I grow all the bushes only in this way and I believe that a significant increase in the quantity and quality of the crop (as well as the spectacularity of the bushes themselves) is a sufficient reason for this.

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What are the secrets of abundant fruiting

To obtain high yields of gooseberries, you must follow certain "rules of the game", otherwise you will not have to boast of a high yield of delicious berries. I will list the main conditions for high fruiting:

  • prevent thickening of bushes and plantings;
  • timely carry out anti-aging pruning;
  • strive to create a bush with uneven-aged, well-developed and well-placed branches;
  • on weakly branching varieties, carry out summer pinching of shoots (in late July - early August); you can do this on other varieties: this technique helps to increase the number of flower buds on branches of different ages;
  • make it a rule to prevent the appearance of diseases and the invasion of pests; it is easier than afterwards to deal with their consequences;
  • intensively feed the bushes, given that the gooseberry is an intensive culture, which means it takes out much more nutrients from the soil than, for example, currants, providing them with the most comfortable conditions for development;
  • it is imperative to mulch the bushes to maintain soil fertility, protect the root system in winter and create favorable soil conditions in summer.

To make the berries sweeter

The taste of berries of the same gooseberry variety depends very much on the growing conditions, which means that how good your gooseberry will be, its berries will be just as tasty, although the choice of the variety, of course, also plays a significant role. So, if you prefer sweet berries:

  • choose varieties with high taste;
  • provide each branch with maximum lighting;
  • grow gooseberries only on highly fertile soil and do not forget about regular feeding;
  • do not allow the plant to lack any nutrients (at the beginning of the growing season, a sufficient amount of nitrogen is required, in mid-July - phosphorus, at the end of July - potassium);
  • carry out 2-3 foliar fertilizing with fertilizers with microelements and huminates; I prefer New Ideal as such a fertilizer;
  • do not allow the slightest signs of disease - gooseberry berries that are sick with powdery mildew have a very mediocre taste;
  • spend at the beginning and in the middle of the growing season spraying with Epin growth stimulator;
  • Do not let the fruit overripe: when overripe, the sugar content decreases and the taste of the berries deteriorates.

Svetlana Shlyakhtina,


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