Table of contents:

Pear In The North (part 3)
Pear In The North (part 3)

Video: Pear In The North (part 3)

Video: Pear In The North (part 3)
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Pear agrotechnics

pear
pear

Growing rootstocks and grafting pears

Nurseries are still producing an insufficient number of pear seedlings, which leads to a certain shortage of planting material, especially for new promising varieties of this crop. However, this should not discourage gardeners, but, on the contrary, encourage them to personally try to grow seedlings for their site. For this, it is necessary to take care of the purchase of seeds for growing rootstocks. Seedlings of the most winter-hardy Central Russian varieties and semi-cultivated forms can serve as rootstocks. Seeds intended for spring sowing must be stratified. The minimum duration of stratification at 0 โ€ฆ -2 ยฐ C is 90 days, the optimal one is 100-120 days. Seedlings grown from seeds are grafted with an eye in the summer (budding), in the spring - with a cuttings or winter grafting. When using the first two propagation methods, it takes at least three years to grow a two year old seedling. With winter grafting, seedlings are obtained a year earlier.

For gardeners who want to have fewer problems associated with freezing of pear plants, a proven method of grafting zoned and promising varieties into the crown of the skeleton is recommended. In this case, a single organism is formed, consisting of three parts: a seedling - a winter-hardy insert of a skeleton-former - a variety chosen by the gardener. Success depends on the correct choice of such an insert. In addition to its high winter hardiness, the skeleton former should be able to quickly form a crown with well-spaced skeletal branches extending at an angle of 60-80 ยฐ. It must also have good compatibility with the cultivar being grafted. For the conditions of the North-West and adjacent regions, the pear-skeleton No. 217, specially selected at the All-Russian Research Institute of Horticulture named after I. V. Michurin for her outstanding qualities. Inoculate the skeleton by budding or grafting. The first is carried out from mid-July to mid-August, the second (with improved copulation or for the bark) - in early spring or at the beginning of the growing season. It is very important to vaccinate at least 20-25 cm from the base of the branch.

Planting pears

After the place for planting the seedlings has been determined, the planting pits are prepared. Such a pit should have a cylindrical shape, after filling with soil and watering, it provides the most uniform sediment of the soil along with the root system of the seedling. The size of the pit is determined by the degree of soil fertility and its cultivation. The poorer the soil, the larger the volume of the hole should be when planting. It is recommended to observe the following minimum dimensions: diameter 80-100 cm, depth 60-70 cm. The bottom of the dug hole is loosened with a shovel or crowbar to a depth of 10-15 cm.

If the site has poor sandy soils, then the diameter of the planting pit is increased in order to cultivate as much soil as possible and to create optimal conditions for root growth in the first years. In heavy clay soils, the depth is also increased.

When digging holes, the upper cultivated layer is laid in one direction, and the lower, underlying horizon, in the other. The purpose of this separation is to use only the topsoil for planting. The soil dug from the bottom of the hole is no longer used for planting. After planting the seedling, it is evenly scattered along the aisles for subsequent cultivation.

The timing of digging holes is determined by the time of planting seedlings. For spring planting, the pits are prepared in the fall, and for the fall - in 3-4 weeks. The best time for planting in the North-West of Russia is spring - the second half of April - early May. Autumn planting (in September) is permissible, but at the same time, there is a high probability of freezing of plants in winter, especially with late planting dates.

When preparing planting holes, it is possible to significantly improve the physical properties of the soil. So, if the soil on the site is sandy, then it can be improved by adding clay (2-3 buckets per hole) and peat or peat compost (up to 1 / 3-1 / 2 of the volume). If the soil, on the contrary, is heavy clay, then the addition of the same amount of sand can significantly improve its physical properties. Especially useful is the addition of peat (up to 1 / 3-1 / 2 of the volume) to the soil prepared to fill the pits.

To cultivate the soil in the planting pits, rotted manure, peat-manure compost, humus (25-30 kg per 1 pit) are used as organic fertilizers. It is not recommended to use fresh manure for these purposes, since it significantly decreases in volume during decomposition, thereby causing the soil of the planting pit to settle together with the plant planted in it. In this case, the roots of the seedlings may undergo heating.

The best potash fertilizer for planting pits is wood ash (1 kg), since besides potassium it contains many other macro- and microelements. 0.6-1 kg of lime is also added to each pit. From mineral fertilizers, 0.6-1 kg of superphosphate and 100-150 g of potassium sulfate are applied (if lime is not added). It is not recommended to introduce nitrogen fertilizers into the soil of the planting pits - upon contact with them, the roots of the seedlings may die off and the survival conditions may worsen. When preparing for planting holes with a larger diameter, it is necessary to increase the dose of fertilizer accordingly.

In the event that the groundwater is close to the soil surface, planting can be done without digging holes. At the site chosen for planting, the soil is fertilized and dug deep. The seedling is placed to the stake and cultivated soil is added to it, forming a mound to the level of the root collar. In the upper part of the mound, a bowl-shaped depression is made for watering. Thus, the tree finds itself in the center of a hillock, reaching a height of 30-40 cm. Its diameter in the first year should be at least 1.5 m, then gradually, by adding earth, the mound is brought to a diameter of 3 m.

Before planting, the seedlings are inspected and all broken and damaged branches are removed. Dried seedlings are placed in water for a day to restore the normal level of tissue hydration.

Before planting, the root system is dipped in a clay chatterbox. It is more convenient to land together. One of the planters sets the seedling on a mound and spreads its roots evenly in different directions. The seedling is placed on the north side of the stake so that it protects the bole from sunburn in the winter-spring period. Another person covers the roots with loose earth. During planting, the seedling is shaken several times so that the soil adheres better and more tightly to the roots, and the soil is compacted by trampling underfoot. In this case, the leg should be turned toe to the seedling and the pressure is made from heel to toe. This technique allows you to prevent heavy sedimentation of the soil after watering, as well as deepening the root collar.

The root collar of a planted pear tree should be 4-5 cm above the soil level. A hole is made around each planted plant, pouring a roller of soil around the perimeter of the filled planting pit. It should be 20-25 cm high and the same width. Regardless of the weather and soil moisture, the plants are watered: the average watering rate per seedling is 2-3 buckets of water. After watering, the soil around the seedling is mulched to retain moisture and prevent crust formation. A variety of organic materials are used as mulch: manure, humus, peat or compost, sawdust, etc. Its layer should be at least 5-10 cm. Mulch is not poured onto the trunk of the plant. It must be borne in mind that the deepening of the root collar leads not only to a delay in the growth and fruiting of the tree,but even to his death (underpinned by the bark covered with earth on the trunk). After the soil subsides, the seedlings are tied to the stakes with a figure of eight twine.

Watering and feeding pears

Planted young plants must be watered at least three times per season, pouring three buckets at a time per 1 seedling. The depth of soil moisture should be at least 30-50 cm.

When planting pear seedlings in the autumn, pruning of their branches should not be carried out. In spring planting, the conductor and lateral branches are cut to 1/4 of their length, and the cut is made above the bud. Places of cuts must be covered with pitch.

The care of pear plants carried out in the year of planting should be aimed at ensuring the conditions for their speedy and complete survival. For this, first of all, it is necessary to ensure timely watering. The layer of mulch applied under the plants after planting must be preserved throughout the season. Weeds that appear must be weeded out in a timely manner.

In the future, to create optimal growth conditions, the soil in the trunks is kept in a loose and weed-free state. In the near-trunk circles, the soil is dug to a depth of 8-12 cm, while the processing should be the closer to the trunk, the smaller (5-8 cm).

Fertilizers are applied under young trees during spring digging over the entire area of the trunk circle. In the second year after planting, it is recommended to apply fertilizers in the following quantities: manure or compost 10-15 kg, urea - 50 g, superphosphate - 200 g, potassium sulfate - 60 g. As the trees grow, the annual doses of fertilization gradually increase, reaching 9 -10 years of age 50-60 kg of manure or compost, 180 g of urea, 500 g of superphosphate and 320 g of potassium sulfate per tree.

In a fruit-bearing garden, the soil, as a rule, is kept under black steam, loosened many times, especially after heavy rains, when it is strongly compacted and covered with a crust.

Manure, humus, compost, bird droppings, slurry are usually applied under fruiting plants. The best manure is mullein and horse manure. Manure is applied as the main fertilizer annually or every 1-2 years. When applied annually, the dose is 3.5-6 kg per 1 m of the trunk circle. On poor podzolized soils, slopes and heavy soils, the dose is increased. On light soils, manure is best applied in the fall, and on heavy soils - in the spring. In spring application, manure is scattered and sealed as soon as possible so that it does not lose its qualities.

How to fertilize a pear correctly

In addition to manure, humus, compost, bird droppings, and slurry, mineral fertilizers are also used to fertilize pears. Approximately 35-50 g of ammonium nitrate, 46-50 g of simple granular superphosphate and 20-25 g of potassium sulfate are added to 1 mยฒ of the trunk circle. If the soil is fertile (manure was applied for a long time), then the dose of mineral fertilizers can be halved.

In a fruit-bearing garden, ammonium nitrate, urea (carbomide) and ammonium sulfate are most often used from nitrogen fertilizers. Nitrogen fertilizers, especially in the nitrate form, are extremely mobile and are easily washed out during heavy rains and watering. For this reason, they must be applied in spring and summer, dividing the annual dose into 2-3 parts (2/3 in spring, and 1/3 during the period of increased growth in mid-July). In dry form, they are brought under rain or under watering, sealed only with a rake. They can be applied in liquid form (fertilizing watering) or on leaves (foliar feeding).

Of the phosphate fertilizers, pulverized superphosphate, granular and double granular, as well as phosphate rock, are usually used.

Superphosphate is usually brought in for the autumn digging. It can be mixed with all mineral fertilizers before application.

Of potassium fertilizers, potassium sulfate is more commonly used.

In addition to the above, complex or complex fertilizers are also produced: nitrophos, ammophos, nitrafoska, nitroammophos, natroammofoska.

In addition to the main fertilizer, the trees are periodically fed. For this, mullein, slurry, bird droppings are used. Mullein and slurry for feeding can be used without pre-fermentation. Before adding them, they are diluted with water 5-6 times. Poultry droppings are fermented before use. Dry droppings are poured to half the volume of the barrel, poured with warm water and left to ferment for several days, stirring occasionally. After fermentation is completed, the liquid fraction is drained, diluted 8-10 times with water and used for feeding. The sludge remaining in the barrel is used as an organic fertilizer, embedded in the soil during digging.

An additional way of feeding pear trees is foliar feeding. It is made in years of abundant fruiting, with symptoms of a lack of any macro- or microelement, as well as when trees freeze after severe winters. The best type of nitrogen fertilizer for foliar feeding is urea. Over the summer, its solution can be done up to three dressings: 1st - 5-6 days after the end of flowering, 2nd - a month after the first and 3rd - in August - September, after picking up the fruits, respectively, at a dose of 30, 40 and 40 g per 10 liters of water.

Spraying trees with solutions of phosphorus and potash fertilizers is carried out in the second half of the growing season in order to create optimal conditions not only for setting flower buds, but also for ripening wood, as well as better preparing plants for winter. For foliar dressing with phosphorus, potash fertilizers, as well as microelements, the following solution concentrations are recommended (g per 10 l of water): phosphoric - 200-300, potassium - 50-100, boric acid, or borax - 15-20, copper sulfate - 5, zinc sulfate - 10, magnesium sulfate - 200.

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Pear in the North:

part 1, part 2, part 3, part 4, part 5

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