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Video: September Work In The Garden And Vegetable Garden
The main works of gardeners and florists in September
If you didn't manage to plant winter garlic at the end of August, then do it at the very beginning of September. First, prepare the bed: for each square meter of soil, add a bucket of well-rotted organic matter, half a bucket of sand (you don’t need to do this if your soil is sandy), add a liter can of ash and carefully dig it onto the bayonet of a shovel. If it's dry autumn, then in the evening water the garden well with water.
In the morning, make a marking for planting, with a peg make indentations according to a 10x10 cm pattern. If you prefer a larger garlic, then the marking should be done according to a 15x15 cm pattern. The depth for early planting of garlic should be at least 12 cm. In each cavity, add a tablespoon of sand, one large granule of AVA fertilizer and lower the clove. Sprinkle with sand on top and level the soil.
With such a planting, garlic will have time to develop a powerful root system before the onset of cold weather, but it will not rise. In early spring, it will start to grow. The garlic culture is cold-resistant, so it is not afraid of late spring frosts. It will ripen around the end of July and is ready to harvest before the August rains. If in spring or autumn the area with garlic plantings is flooded with water, care must be taken to drain the excess. To do this, it is enough to dig the passages between the beds to a depth of 40-50 cm.
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It is often asked why the tips of the feathers of garlic and onions turn yellow? There may be several reasons for this: lack of nitrogen, usually in the bright spring sun, when there is powerful photosynthesis; lack of copper in the soil, most often in peatlands. In this case, the tips of the leaves turn white rather than yellow. With a lack of potassium, the leaves not only turn yellow, but also curl.
If the plants come under severe frost, then not only their tips turn yellow, but also the entire leaves. If the ends of the leaves turn yellow and at the same time the stem brightens and even turns yellow, then usually such a plant is damaged by a pest (more often this happens in onions - damage by an onion fly). But this can also happen on too acidic soil or when the roots lack air (suffocate) in over-resourced soil.
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Until September 10-15, you can plant strawberries, although my experience shows that in the North-West it is better to plant strawberries in the spring, at the end of May and even at the beginning of June. To do this, even in the previous year, in August, 4-5 rosettes should be allowed to take root on the mother bush (usually gardeners simply select the bush that had a large harvest in the summer as the mother bush). Contrary to what they write, only the sockets closest to the bush should be left, all the rest should be discarded. The rosettes should be allowed to overwinter together with the mother plant and only in the spring should they be cut off from it and transplanted.
First, on the prepared bed, you should make depressions with a shovel according to the 30x30cm scheme, add one third of a teaspoon of AVA fertilizer granules to the bottom and transplant the young bushes right on the shovel along with a lump of earth. This method is called transshipment. At the same time, the root system is not damaged, and the bushes take root well.
After transshipment, the strawberries are well watered. Plants bloom at the end of July and give the first small harvest of large berries. With late autumn planting, the bushes do not have time to root well (this takes about three weeks without frost and low temperatures), so in winter they bulge out of the ground, and they often die. In addition, the rosettes do not have time to grow a sufficient number of leaves covering the rhizome in winter, therefore, without additional shelter, the rhizome can freeze under frost without snow.
With early autumn planting, the rosettes have practically no roots yet and their survival rate is low. Bushes, even those that have successfully wintered, are frail, weak and grow poorly all summer, berries will appear on them only next year.
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In early September, the potatoes should be harvested, mowing the tops a week before harvesting. It should not be left on the field, since phytophthora from the tops can get on them when harvesting tubers. The tops should be dried and burned over the fire. Ash can be used to deoxidize the soil and feed plants, because there is no phytophthora pathogen in the ash.
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For the improvement of the soil, winter rye should be sown immediately over the harvested field. In the spring, you need to mow it and dig up the green mass along with the soil and roots. After a week, you can plant potatoes. It should be borne in mind that such a procedure introduces a fairly large amount of nitrogen into the soil, therefore, it is undesirable to add additional Azophoska during planting, it should be limited only to the introduction of phosphorus and potassium, otherwise scab cannot be avoided due to excess nitrogen in early varieties.
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In early September, you should cut off the peduncles of gladioli. After a couple of weeks, the plants should be dug up. In order not to be confused, each variety is put into a separate nylon stocking along with roots and children. Then washed in water, dipped in a solution of malofos, the concentration of which should be made twice as high as indicated in the instructions. After 15 minutes, the plants are removed and lowered directly in stockings into a solution of potassium permanganate of bright pink color, also for 15 minutes. After that, they are removed from the stocking, the above-ground part is cut off, leaving a stump of about 4-6 cm, and laid out in a dry room. Drying takes place at a temperature of about 22 … 25 ° C for about 20 days. The roots are then easily separated from the new bulb together with the old bulb. All scales should be removed from it.
If the bulbs are stored together with the scales, then, despite the treatment with karbofos, thrips eggs may remain under the scales. In winter, the larvae hatching from them will suck the juice from the bulbs, and they will dry out. The easiest way to store gladiolus bulbs is in a double black nylon stocking. Fold the bulbs together with the children of this variety in a stocking, attach a note with the name of the variety, sprinkle with a crushed tablet of any antipyretic drug, bandage the stocking, insert the next variety - and so on. Hang the resulting garland on the window bolt behind the curtain. The bulbs will keep well until spring.
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After the first freeze, which killed the entire aerial part of the dahlia, cut off the tops, dig up the tubers, rinse them with water, hold them in a solution of potassium permanganate for 15-20 minutes, immediately divide them into parts. Keep in mind that each tuber should have a piece of the neck, because at the very base of the neck, the buds are laid. If the dahlias are dried, then dividing a piece of the stem will become difficult. Write the name of the variety directly over the tubers with a felt-tip pen and place them in the shed to form a tight rind. After a week, the tubers can be stored. They keep well if each tuber is twice smeared with beaten egg white from a fresh egg using a shaving brush to avoid moisture loss during storage. You can store them directly in a cardboard box on the windowsill,Or, put the tubers in a canvas bag and hang it near the cold water pipe in the toilet.
Do not keep the entire nest of tubers and roots from the dug out bush, even in the cellar. The nest must be divided annually, otherwise the variety will begin to degenerate.
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At the end of September, it is necessary to cut off the aerial part of peonies, phlox, astilbe; for irises, the leaves should be cut off so that a fan of leaves with a height of about 15 cm remains. Immediately after cutting, pour all these plantings with a 1% solution of Bordeaux liquid (1 teaspoon without top for half a liter of water). In the spring, when a new aerial part grows, watering with this liquid should be repeated. This simple procedure will rid your plants of rot disease.
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After the first freeze, remove the carrots for winter storage. If it's time to harvest the roots, and the weather is warm, then be sure to keep the carrots in the refrigerator for a day or two - the carrots must go through a cooling stage before storing, otherwise, during storage, greens will begin to grow.
You can also dig up beets. Her tops are cut off so that a little aerial part remains. Cauliflower can also be removed, but together with the roots, compose it in a box and place it in the cellar for growing. The heads will increase significantly in size within about a month. Or leave this cabbage in the garden, but it must be covered with double lutrasil from possible frost.
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Berry bushes can be planted throughout September: raspberries, currants, gooseberries, honeysuckle and nuts. If you bought planting material for cherries, plums, pears and apples, as well as sea buckthorn, then it is better to dig them in before spring, and not to plant them before winter.
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If there are no lichens on the bark of your trees, you can whitewash the trunks and skeletal branches with water-based paint for outdoor use. It will not wash off by the autumn lingering rains until spring and will protect the trees from the sunburns in spring, which are usually possible in March, when, after cloudy winter weather, a very bright sun appears, enhanced by snow.
Late spring whitewashing is completely pointless. Chalk whitewashing, too, since it is completely washed off until spring. Spring burns of the bark further lead to its rotting and death.