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Growing Sweet Peppers In A Greenhouse
Growing Sweet Peppers In A Greenhouse

Video: Growing Sweet Peppers In A Greenhouse

Video: Growing Sweet Peppers In A Greenhouse

Sweet pepper with a Ural accent. Part 3

Bell pepper
Bell pepper

Fifth, whatever one may say, but the harsh climate is clearly not to the taste of pepper: the plants experience constant stress, which reduces their vitality, making them more susceptible to all kinds of diseases. The only way to relieve such stress is to regularly spray plants with growth and development stimulants, there are a lot of them on the market today. True, when choosing a particular drug and spraying it, you need to very strictly adhere to the instructions, since spraying with a part of this kind of stimulants in high doses is fraught with results that are directly opposite to those expected.

Sixth - in our conditions, peppers must be formed, since, alas, one cannot count on a harvest on numerous stepchildren. All stepchildren are removed from the trunk as soon as they appear. Some of the strong upper stepchildren after the branching must be left, their number depends on two circumstances: the amount of available light space and the time remaining until the end of the season. Under the most unfavorable conditions (there is a minimum of light space and the greenhouse is not heated even with biofuel), pepper is formed into three stalks.

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If circumstances permit, then the number of stems can be increased to four or five. Leaving this or that number of stepsons, you need to be guided by an unshakable rule: all shoots must be in the light. When removing stepchildren, first of all, those that do not have buds or are directed inside the bush are rejected. It should also be borne in mind that there are undersized varieties and hybrids of pepper, the formation of which is limited to the removal of stepchildren from the trunk of the bush. In addition, it is necessary to promptly remove the sprouted shoots, as well as parts of the shoots that are sick with gray or white rot, cutting them out to a healthy place. Similarly, the fruits diseased with the named ailments are examined and removed.

The seventh requirement is that modern hybrids bring a tangible harvest, which is difficult for quite fragile pepper plants to sustain. In order to avoid breaks in the shoots under the weight of the crop, the plants are tied up under the first branch of the stem, and then, additionally, each shoot separately. You can tie it to both vertically arranged twines and pegs. In addition, plywood or planks should be placed under the fruits located close to the ground to protect them from rot.

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We fight diseases and pests of pepper

There are plenty of diseases and pests in pepper. Of the diseases in the Urals, the most dangerous are white and gray rot, and of the pests, the spider mites and aphids are the most dangerous.

White and gray rot belong to the category of fungal diseases. They appear on plants (at the bases of shoots, on leaves and fruits) in the form of weeping spots with a corresponding bloom. Against these diseases, it is important to observe the correct crop rotation (if the greenhouse is at the bottom, every autumn you need to change the soil), carefully burn the post-harvest residues, and when harvesting, the affected fruits are collected separately and destroyed. In addition, it is necessary to ensure timely ventilation of greenhouses and prevent condensation from appearing on the plants, which provokes the spread of diseases.

As for aphids and spider mites, it is important not to miss the moment and defeat the enemy at the very beginning, when there are few pests, and there are still no flowers, and even more so fruits, since this allows you to use the same insecticides that are offered on the market in many ways (Actellik etc.). If the moment is missed, then you will have to fight with less alternative means, for example, "Fitoverm". Using infusions of various herbs with soap for spraying is, of course, also possible, but very laborious and less effective.

We collect the long-awaited harvest

It is customary to distinguish technical (consumer) ripeness and biological ripeness in pepper. Pepper in technical ripeness usually has a green color (with the exception of varieties with dark fruit colors: purple, coffee-chocolate brown, etc., as well as varieties with very light fruits), and in biological ripeness, it has a bright color inherent in the variety and a shiny surface. Fruits are usually harvested at the stage of technical ripeness, preventing them from fully ripening, since new ovaries do not form during the ripening period, and, accordingly, a solid part of the harvest will be lost.

Only well-formed large fruits, as well as deformed and damaged fruits, are harvested, since they only retard the growth of healthy fruits. The fruits that have reached technical maturity normally reach biological maturity (in which the palatability is higher) in maturation. The ripening rate depends on the temperature - at high temperatures (above 20 ° C), the fruits will ripen in a week, and they will need to be consumed or processed immediately. In a cool place (9… 12 ° C) the shelf life of the fruit can be extended up to about a month. There are a couple of important rules to follow when harvesting pepper. First, you need to collect the pepper completely dry, since wet (and this is what it will be in the morning) pepper is stored worse and is more prone to decay during storage. This means that the greenhouse should be well ventilated before harvesting. Secondly,pepper shoots are extremely fragile. Therefore, during the collection process, you should not break off each fruit, but be sure to cut it off with scissors. Otherwise, you risk breaking all plants.

Have a good harvest!

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