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Agrotechnics Of Compacted Planting Of Vegetables-2
Agrotechnics Of Compacted Planting Of Vegetables-2
Video: Agrotechnics Of Compacted Planting Of Vegetables-2
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Anonim

This method of growing helps to effectively use the land and get a good harvest of vegetables and herbs

In the spring I want to plant as many plants as possible, but often the area allocated for the beds does not allow this. Therefore, many plants have to be planted with others. In early May, I sow carrots and beets. I always place these beds next to each other, since then I wrap them up with one piece of covering material. The beds are located from north to south. I sow root crops along the ridge. Three rows of root crops are placed on one bed.

Great potato planting
Great potato planting

I sow radishes between the rows with root crops. The result is three rows of root crops and two rows of radishes on each bed. This radish is quite enough for us, we even treat our friends. I water the beds often, I do not allow the soil to dry out, otherwise the radish will go into the trunk. At the beginning of the growing season, carrots grow very slowly, so after harvesting radish, I plant onion sets in its place on greens. While the carrots are gaining strength, both radish and green onions have time to grow between its rows. I do not plant anything on the beet ridge after radish, since this culture very quickly builds up its green mass. Once I planted dill between carrots and beets. It turned out that these plants do not like each other. The dill grew frail, and the carrots and beets did not want to grow.

In the spring I plant spring garlic on the ridges with large-fruited garden strawberries in the center. The ridges are well filled with peat, compost and rotted manure. Garlic protects strawberries from pests. Large heads grow. I heard this opinion: you cannot plant garlic on strawberries, as it scares away insects that pollinate the berry. I disagree with this statement. In addition to garlic, I scatter dill seeds on strawberry beds in the fall. Such a neighborhood is to the liking of both dill and strawberries. Dill grows in the wild much better than on a separate bed for it.

I plant leafy and head lettuce in mid-May with seedlings between peonies. Before large leaves appear on the peonies, the salad has time to ripen. I also plant parsley seedlings in mid-May between hybrid tea roses. The soil there is well filled with compost and rotted manure, so I feed parsley only twice in early June with mullein infusion. In the same place, between hybrid tea roses, I plant asters seedlings. Basil is a thermophilic culture; it does not want to grow in the beds. I plant its seedlings in boxes and keep them in a greenhouse on the paths. When I water the greenhouse, I take out the boxes and then put them back in place. Spicy decorative peppers with small fruits also grow in crates. In July, in hot weather, it grows outside, and when it gets cool, it moves to the house on the windowsill.

These pumpkins grew on a compost heap
These pumpkins grew on a compost heap

Many people advise to plant some other crops along the edge of the potato or between the plants. Most likely, such a person has never seen a potato grow, or his soil is "skinny" and the potato grows very frail and does not shade other plants. Our potatoes drive out powerful juicy tops, and after the next hurricane wind, it lays down, and nothing will grow next to it. It is necessary to place the ridge further away from the potato rows. The only thing that can be planted between potatoes is beans. Several times they were planted between potato plants. But I noticed that the beans grow huge, the harvest is good, and for some reason the potatoes don't like this neighborhood. The potato yield is reduced and the tubers become smaller. Therefore, I do not add anything to the potatoes. Roses also do not remain without “neighbors”. Along the rows with roses, I plant seedlings of low-growing marigolds.Everything looks very impressive, and roses are also good - marigolds scare away pests. She planted cabbage of different ripening periods on the ridges in a checkerboard pattern. Early cabbage is removed by the beginning of August, and space is freed up for late varieties.

At the end of June, I dig out tulips. I put rotted manure and compost on the vacant space and plant dill on one bed, radish, daikon on the others and plant kohlrabi cabbage seedlings (which grew up in a greenhouse). I cover everything with a covering material from pests (not dense so that it is not hot under it), since I use pesticides only for flowers and apple trees. After these ridges are free, I plant mustard in this place, which I then bury in the beds like green manure. I manage to plant mustard in this place twice, then embedding it in the soil. In late September - early October (depending on the weather), I plant tulip bulbs on these ridges. The land should not be empty, otherwise huge weeds will grow and have time to scatter seeds, and they deplete the soil, and the appearance of the ridges is unkempt.

Around young apple trees in a near-stem circle, I sow marigolds in spring, plant marigold seedlings. This landing looks beautiful. And there is no need to allocate a separate place for these flowers, and they protect from pests. In the fall, I bury the plant remains of these flowers under the apple trees. I don't bury all the bushes of marigolds, only one bush under one tree, since they kill both harmful and beneficial microorganisms in the soil. I chop the rest of the marigold bushes with a shovel, scatter them over the arable land in the place where the potatoes grew and plow them. I do not plant edible plants under the apple trees, since apple trees require a large amount of organic and mineral fertilizers. It would look beautiful under the apple trees of nasturtium. But she grows fat from such a large amount of organic matter, increases the leaf mass to the detriment of flowering. In mid-August, I harvest turnip onions.In the vacant space, I plant onion sets along the ridge in rows on greens. I plant dill and radish between the rows with onions. I cover it with a covering material. Onion greens grow quickly, while dill grows very slowly at this time. When the dill grows up, the onions will already be removed from the garden.

This garlic grew among strawberries
This garlic grew among strawberries

Our compost heap is not empty either. We have two compost heaps measuring 3x4 meters. The heaps are limited by pieces of unnecessary iron and slate, warmed up by the sun. One compost heap is filled, while in the other the decomposition of plant residues takes place. In order for plant residues to decompose faster, the pile must be constantly watered. It does not stand idle - I cover it in spring with black film, and I make holes in the film - only five holes: along the edges of the pile and one in the center. Before planting plants, I add a teaspoon of superphosphate, AVA Universal fertilizer and a little ash to the wells. I plant pumpkin seedlings in the holes and cover it with a covering material. I water the pumpkins twice a week. I completely remove the covering material when the plants begin to bloom. Plants on such high ridges are warm. The sun heats up the heapsand decaying plant residues heat them up. Once a season (at the beginning of the growing season) I feed pumpkins with the preparation "Baikal-EM 1". This microbiological fertilizer activates the activity of beneficial soil microflora, since it contains bacteria beneficial to the soil. Therefore, the process of rotting in the compost heap is faster. Twice in early June, I feed pumpkins with liquid mullein infusion. I don’t spend more fertilizing: everything that is needed for the growth and ripening of the crop, pumpkins are found in the compost heap. It is not necessary to water such beds - the black film does not let the weeds through. The pumpkin harvest is excellent even in cold summer. The largest pumpkin pulled 45 kg.This microbiological fertilizer activates the activity of beneficial soil microflora, since it contains bacteria beneficial to the soil. Consequently, the process of decay in the compost heap is faster. Twice in early June, I feed pumpkins with liquid mullein infusion. I don’t spend more fertilizing: everything that is needed for the growth and ripening of the crop, pumpkins are found in the compost heap. It is not necessary to water such beds - the black film does not let the weeds through. The pumpkin harvest is excellent even in cold summer. The largest pumpkin pulled 45 kg.This microbiological fertilizer activates the activity of beneficial soil microflora, since it contains bacteria beneficial to the soil. Consequently, the process of decay in the compost heap is faster. Twice in early June I feed pumpkins with liquid mullein infusion. I don’t spend more fertilizing: everything that is needed for the growth and ripening of the crop, pumpkins are found in a compost heap. It is not necessary to water such beds - the black film does not let the weeds through. The pumpkin harvest is excellent even in cold summer. The largest pumpkin pulled 45 kg.pumpkins are found in a compost heap. It is not necessary to water such beds - the black film does not let the weeds through. The pumpkin harvest is excellent even in cold summer. The largest pumpkin pulled 45 kg.pumpkins are found in a compost heap. It is not necessary to water such beds - the black film does not let the weeds through. The pumpkin harvest is excellent even in cold summer. The largest pumpkin pulled 45 kg.

Dill, radishes, green onions, parsley, lettuce, garlic, basil, hot peppers, summer flowers, pumpkins - no matter how much space they take on separate beds! With this cultivation technology, precious space is saved, less effort is spent to grow the crop, and most importantly, the soil works all the time. Of course, with such an intensive cultivation of crops, I annually add rotted manure, compost and a little decomposed peat to the ridges. Don't be afraid to bring in peat. Peat stays in the soil longer than other organic matter and makes it loose. It only works in conjunction with manure! To prevent the soil from being sour from it, I add a little wood ash. The land should not be empty. If you harvest from the garden and abandon it until spring, then it will overgrow with weeds. In the summer of last year, the soil of many gardeners on empty ridges dried out, there were not even worms in it,soil bacteria didn't work. And sowing different crops on the beds does not deplete the soil, pests and diseases do not accumulate during crop rotation. The harvest of all crops was excellent.

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