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The Use Of Root And Foliar Dressing In The Garden And In The Garden
The Use Of Root And Foliar Dressing In The Garden And In The Garden

Video: The Use Of Root And Foliar Dressing In The Garden And In The Garden

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Video: Tips & Tricks For Perfect Hedging | Gardening | Great Home Ideas 2023, February

Read part 1. Schemes for the use of fertilizing for vegetables

Ambulance in the form of foliar feeding

Use of root and foliar dressings
Use of root and foliar dressings

As already noted, root dressing is the main one, since it is through the soil that the main dose of fertilizer is applied. But it is unreasonable to limit ourselves only to them, since foliar feeding is a more radical, operational way of feeding - a kind of "first aid" to plants in a critical situation. With foliar dressing, fertilizers are introduced not through the soil (as with root ones), but through the leaves and stems.

When carrying out foliar dressing, the plants are sprayed with a weak solution of fertilizers. To prevent the solution on the leaves from drying out quickly, which will impede the flow of nutrients into the leaf, spraying is carried out late in the evening or in cloudy weather when the air humidity is higher. During the day, you can spray only in cloudy (but, of course, not in rainy) weather, while in sunny weather the nutrient solution on the leaves dries quickly, which significantly reduces the effect. When foliar dressing, they try to achieve uniform and complete wetting of the leaves, including processing the lower side of the leaf blade.

The amount of foliar dressing required is different and depends on the degree of soil fertility in your area. According to the recommendations of our specialists, the minimum permissible number of dressings is two per season: the first time - during the beginning of the intensive formation of the leaf apparatus, and the second time - during active flowering and fruiting. On the other hand, if you are guided by Dutch or Finnish technology, then spraying with nutrients is best done once every 7-10 days. I have been using this option for a long time and I can honestly confirm that the results are simply stunning. Plants develop rapidly, are unusually beautiful and delight with an excellent harvest.

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When preparing solutions for spraying, the following rules must be followed:

1. A nutrient solution for foliar dressing is prepared on the basis of both pure salts of macroelements and microelements, and on the basis of all kinds of solid and liquid mixtures. When preparing the solution, you need to be extremely careful, and in no case should the permissible concentration be exceeded. Solutions of increased concentration can not only burn the leaves, but also completely destroy the plants.

2. When drawing up a solution, several factors are taken into account: the presence of the necessary elements in the soil; the appearance of the plant and the main purposes of feeding. Specific nutrient deficiencies are identified by changes in leaf color and condition.

In other words, it is simply impossible to unequivocally give the composition of the nutrient solution for spraying that would be suitable in any case. However, from my point of view, it is more efficient to use ready-made complex liquid fertilizer mixtures with microelements and huminates, the varieties of which are many on the market ("New Ideal", "Impulse +", etc.). And if necessary, you can add potassium sulfate or urea to them - I indicate these particular fertilizers, since in the overwhelming majority of cases you have to deal with a lack of potassium or nitrogen.

However, if desired, such a concentrate for liquid foliar dressing is easy to prepare yourself - it will be much cheaper. For example, I have developed the following option, which, frankly, I am very pleased with - for a five-liter bottle I take 500 g of complex fertilizer "Kemira Lux" and a 200-gram package of the humic preparation "Fitosporin-M". The latter should first be crushed very carefully. I put all the components in a bottle, then pour the bottle up to the very top with water. After a few days, all the preparations will disperse - for better dissolution, it does not hurt to shake the bottle well several times during this period.

Then I pour the composition into one-liter bottles of mineral water and use it as intended. When spraying, you need to take one solution cap (meaning the cap from a liter bottle of mineral water) per 1 liter of water. If this fertilizer is required to feed the plants at the root (this is also very popular with plants), then I increase the dose to two lids per 1 liter of water. Of course, the above option is not a dogma (and readers can develop their own unique composition), you just need to select high-quality initial components and carry out the most careful calculations.

Concluding the conversation about foliar dressing, I want to note their extraordinary effectiveness. They strengthen the leaf apparatus, increasing its resistance to adverse factors. Increases the growth rate and ensures better plant development. Stimulates early flowering and early harvest formation. Increase plant resistance to adverse environmental factors. They increase the immunity of plants, make them more resistant to diseases and pests, and also increase the total volume of the crop, sometimes even twofold.

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Alternative root dressing

Use of root and foliar dressings
Use of root and foliar dressings

Unfortunately, if you rely on traditional root and foliar feeding, then there will be a lot of work. However, with age, the energy and strength decreases, and it is extremely difficult to carry heavy buckets of solutions once a week around the site - neither the back nor the hands can withstand. And I think that many will understand me.

It is no less difficult for those who work (alas, not everyone has a vacation for two months, like the teachers), because sometimes it does not work at all to find time to do all gardening work. However, you should not despair, since today traditional dressings have an alternative in the form of long-acting fertilizers. Unlike conventional fertilizers, such fertilizers have the ability to release nutrients gradually, which means that they can be applied immediately upon planting, and then limited to watering and, if necessary, foliar dressing (the latter may not be required).

To reduce the number of dressings, increase the dose of fertilizers introduced and, accordingly, the duration of their action, various forms of so-called slow-acting fertilizers (MLF) have been developed and are used. In these fertilizers, nutrients are either bound into slowly decomposing chemical compounds, or the nutrients are placed in an insoluble substance, from where the fertilizers are gradually released into the soil solution. The number of MDUs includes foreign "Agroblen", "Osmokot", "Plantakot", "Multicot" and others. In Russia, MDUs are produced in the form of small cylindrical rods, which can be simply installed under plants in spring or summer, and the problem of summer dressing will be solved to some extent.

However, the use of such fertilizers cannot be called the best option - the fact is that the nutrients of the MRL are simply released slowly, without caring at all about whether the plant needs nutrition at the moment or not. At the same time, the undoubted advantage of these fertilizers in comparison with conventional ones is that they are much more slowly washed out of the soil and are used more reasonably (which means that you waste less money on the wind). In addition, their use significantly reduces the frequency of summer dressings, although it does not completely eliminate them.

There is an even more profitable way - the use of apions. They are similar in principle to MRLs, but differ from them in that they deliver nutrients "knowingly" rather than just gradually. This may sound a little strange, but it really is, and there are serious scientific explanations for how apions work. In practice, this means that, for example, in cold weather, when plants are not able to assimilate nutrients, apions reduce or even stop their supply, and in warm weather, on the contrary, increase.

As a result, it turns out that there is always enough food for the plants, and there is almost no need to worry about any feeding. The exception, however, are extreme situations, for example, continuous showers, when the dose of potassium and nitrogen in sandy soils is significantly reduced. But all the same, the use of apions makes life much easier, because you no longer have to carry heavy buckets with weekly top dressing, but only foliar dressings are enough.

The main thing that the use of apions gives is a significant increase in yield with a simultaneous very noticeable (after all, it is no longer necessary to feed regularly) a reduction in labor costs. It is enough to put apions under the plants when planting, and nothing more will be required from you, except that sometimes you need to give the plants foliar feeding with humates and spray them with growth and fruit formation stimulants. In general, for all those who work all week, and on Saturday or Sunday are busy with work in the beds - apions really are a way out of the vicious circle when there is not a minute left for rest.

I have been using apions at my dacha for many years. The first year I ventured to try them on several plants - after all, the fertilizers are not at all the same as we are used to. And, of course, before buying them, I carefully studied all the technical issues, found out that they write about them in Western and Japanese scientific publications, since I don’t believe in Russian advertising for a long time (and generally I don’t like to throw money away). And only then she took a chance, and not even on vegetables or horticultural crops, but on several ornamental and medicinal shrubs. The results were amazing. For example, Eleutherococcus only in May gave new growths of 50 cm, and junipers and thuja - 30 cm - I have never seen this, although my land is very good, and I follow the plants very carefully.

Therefore, the very next year I expanded the range of crops grown on apions, and put them not only under ornamental plants, but also under a number of vegetables - tomatoes, cucumbers, eggplants, cabbage, potatoes, pumpkins and zucchini, under shrubs - currants, gooseberries, etc. etc. and trees, primarily under the apple tree. The results were not long in coming. For example, pumpkins were planted on vertical trellises 2.5 meters high - one apion was placed under each - 50. By mid-June, the length of each lash reached the top of the trellis, and 1-2 fruits began to pour on each pumpkin. In comparison with the usual results, this was an advance of about two weeks, and another plus was the fact that it was not required to carry out top dressing and fertilize the holes every ten days when planting.

When growing apple trees, the use of apions is also a huge saving of money, because a lot of fertilizers will be required to feed apple trees in the classic version, and at current prices, at very impressive amounts. With apions, everything is easier - it is enough in spring or early summer to place 3 to 6 apions-100K (depending on the size of the trees) under the trees around the crown perimeter at a depth of 25-30 cm.That's all, no more additional fertilizing will be required, perhaps, only with the exception of those cases when the trees will form super-large yields of apples. Then you need to support them with the introduction of increased doses of nitrogen fertilizers. All of the above applies to many other plants, but I will limit myself to this with examples, since everyone can find detailed data on the use of any fertilizers, including apions, on the Internet.

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