Planting Pepper Seedlings In The Ground And Frost Protection

2024 Author: Sebastian Paterson | [email protected]. Last modified: 2023-12-16 13:47

There is no vegetable garden without peppers. Part 3

Planting pepper seedlings in the ground

In the North and Northwest, it is planted in a greenhouse or greenhouse. Planting time depends on soil temperature. It is believed that peppers can be planted already at a temperature of + 14 ° C. The practice of many years has shown that in our region it is better to wait until the biofuel "flares up" and the soil warms up to a depth of 15 cm to + 16 ° С. After all, in mid-May we have prolonged cold snaps with rain, snow, and the "burning" of biofuel begins to fade, especially if the groundwater is near.

Those who use subsoil heating (electricity, stove chimneys, steam) have nothing to worry about. In order not to be mistaken with the soil temperature, the thermometer must be inserted into the soil to a depth of at least 15 cm. And then cover it from above, for example, with a thick board. The temperature should be watched early in the morning, at 7-8 o'clock. A mistake is made by those gardeners who stick the thermometer shallowly into the soil, do not cover it with anything and watch the readings during the day. Of course, the temperature will be high because the top layer warms up quickly in the sun. In fact, it is much colder in the lower layer.

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Planting options for peppers in a cucumber greenhouse

1. I select a separate area near the entrance, closer to the door.

2. A separate area near the entrance and along the greenhouse near the glass.

On 1m², I plant three cucumber plants and two pepper plants near the glass, i.e. there are two pepper plants per running meter as sealants.

You can plant three peppers if they are of a bouquet type, i.e. do not branch. Varieties such as Winnie the Pooh and Dobrynya Nikitich will bear fruit by mid-July and can be removed. Just do not pull out, but break it out so as not to damage the roots of the cucumbers. If you plant branchy peppers with cucumbers, then no more than two plants per one running meter. And so along the entire perimeter of the cucumber greenhouse. It turns out in it one ridge under the cucumbers, the other under the peppers. The greenhouse is set up so that in the morning it is illuminated by the eastern sun, in the evening - the red rays of the setting sun fall.

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Practice has shown that on the ridge, which is illuminated by the morning sun, cucumbers grow well using the trellis method in two rows, and on the opposite ridge, which is illuminated by the evening rays, peppers grow well and are poured. In practice, it looked like a mystery to me - I tried to plant peppers as compactors on the western ridge, i.e. on this ridge there were cucumbers in two rows, and peppers near the glass (there was a film in the old greenhouse). The peppers were well tied and poured.

This riddle was solved by Felix Edmundovich Velichko, who published the biodynamics of peppers. Pepper benefits from the UV-rich rays of the midday sun and the red light of the setting sun. In practice, many gardeners have already tried this option.

Distance between pepper plants when planting in the ground

Consider several options:

1. Standard varieties, with limited branching, bouquet type - Eroshka, Dobrynya Nikitich, Dolphin, Funtik, Buratino, Winnie the Pooh can be planted up to 8-9 pieces per 1 m². In the northern and north-western regions, bouquet-type varieties (do not branch) are most often used as sealers - Winnie the Pooh, Dobrynya Nikitich, Eroshka, and the distance can be 20x20 cm. The yield is early, friendly. Such varieties in technical ripeness are light green, light yellow, ready for use.

2. Varieties and hybrids of semi-determinant type (spreading): Mercury F1, Frain, Type, Aries F1, Bagration F1, Tenderness - up to 5 plants per 1 m². Not very spreading: Elephant F1, Cardinal F1, Baron F1, Kapitoshka, Garden Ring, Yaroslav - you can plant up to 8 plants per 1m².

In addition to varietal characteristics, the planting density depends on the planting date. The earlier the planting, the longer the plant is in the greenhouse and the more branches, which means that more feeding area will be required. If the ridge is filled with manure or you put humus in the holes, or the peppers are mulched with manure on top, then the plants grow powerful (the leaves are large, branch very strongly, there are many stepchildren along the central shoot), which means that the distance between the plants will have to be increased. If the peppers are formed, then in our zone the plants do not turn out to be bulky, spreading and high, they take up little space, so that even very spreading plants can be planted up to 8 pieces on 1 m2.

In all publications, tall, late-ripening and mid-ripening varieties are recommended to be planted at 3 per 1m². This is for extended turnover heated greenhouses. There peppers grow with a long growing season. In our country, peppers bear fruit for up to three months, and for some gardeners only 1.5 months. During such a period, the plant cannot give many branches to reach a height of 100-150 cm. In our country, it manages to give three branches with ripe fruits, the largest - four branches, and summer ends, we "push" the plant.

Planting pepper seedlings

It is better to land in cloudy weather, in sunny weather - in the evening. If I have potted seedlings, then I plant them at any time of the day, because the root system is not damaged during planting, and therefore the plants do not wither. Before planting, I spray the seedlings with the homeopathic remedy "Healthy Garden", spill well so that the plants get drunk. The depth of the hole depends on the height of the pot, it must be calculated so that the plant can be buried by 1-2 cm.

Can pepper plants be deeply buried? You can if you live in the south. Our weather is very changeable. With a cold snap, the stem of a buried plant can rot, new roots grow poorly. In hot weather, the gardener will not feel that the plant has stopped growing. When disembarking, the optimum air temperature is desirable + 18-25 ° C, the temperature in the ground + 16 ° C and above. If it gets colder to + 8-10 ° C, then the growth of the pepper stops and the plant will shed flowers, at + 12-13 ° C it slowly but grows.

The best condition for the survival of peppers before planting seedlings is to completely shed the ridge a few days before planting. Then cover it all with a film so that the top layer does not dry out.

They sometimes ask: should the wells be watered with potassium permanganate? Yes, water if the soil is old, i.e. it has already been used in the greenhouse. My soil is a three-year compost, it is clean. I can potassium permanganate and not water. If during the preparation of the soil you brought manure or humus into the ridge at 5-6 kg per 1m², then you do not need to pour organic matter into the holes. The same is with mineral fertilizers.

If manure is not used as biofuel, then organic matter in any form can be added to the holes - semi-rotted manure, humus, biofertilizers (vermicompost, omug, powder) made on the basis of poultry manure, pig manure, etc. If you still feel that the soil is "poor" - you can pour humate over the holes.

There are Irkutsk humates (powders) - Gumat-80, Gumat + 7. The Fart firm produces Ideals; there is lignohumate from St. Petersburg. I use Irkutsk humates, pepper likes them. Pour the well with water at a temperature not lower than + 20 ° C, or better even + 24 ° C, or potassium permanganate, or humate. We planted a plant, it is necessary to sprinkle it around the earth, water it very well near the hole, the water will be absorbed, the earth will squeeze the roots. Then again add earth around the circle and water again. The water will not have time to completely absorb, and you add earth again, as if mulch the hole. Under such mulch, a crust does not form, water stays in the hole, the soil does not dry out for 5-6 days, so I usually do the first watering not earlier than 5-6 days after planting.

You can mulch the entire ridge with humus. Or use other types of mulch (leaves, moss, grass). But this is not always justified, because slugs, ants can accumulate under it, and this is a scourge for peppers. In the northern and north-western regions of the region, mulch from straw manure is justified, but only in small greenhouses, where the film is opened for the whole day.

And in greenhouses, where ventilation is weak, with a large accumulation of carbon dioxide, methane, ammonia, plants can "burn out". Everything is needed in moderation. I do not mulch peppers in the greenhouse, I love open soil, you can loosen it on time, add fresh compost. Practice and control have shown that if biofuel is properly installed, then mulch in the form of straw manure, as a heater, is not required.

Shelter from cold snaps and frosts

Be sure to make a second shelter inside the greenhouse or greenhouse. I use 17 g / m² lutrasil. If there is frost or prolonged cold snaps in mid-May, then I cover it in two layers with such lutrasil, put it on a trellis (wire), and the ridge is completely covered, as if under a canopy. Lutrasil or spandbond 60 g / m² helps very well with frosts of -6-8 ° C, and with prolonged cold snaps it is irreplaceable. If the plants are covered with lutrasil or spandbond, then in the daytime in sunny weather it is not necessary to remove or open it, the plants feel great. For gardeners who come only for the weekend, this is a way out.

Previously, when there was no lutrasil, the second cover was made of film. It was bad for plants under the film in the daytime in the sun, they had to open it slightly. Here is an example from my practice: I planted part of the cucumber seedlings in a greenhouse. I had to go to the city for another batch. But unforeseen circumstances detained me in the city for a long time. There were hot days in early May. The plants under the double cover of the film burned out - the biofuel "burns" from below, the sun beats down from above.