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Video: How To Deal With Malicious Weeds - Wheatgrass, Sow Thistle And Others
Several ways to deal with bad weeds
Gardeners can talk for a very long time on the topic of weed control. By the end of summer, certain interest groups usually form - who has which weed is more annoying. This usually depends on the type of soil on the site and the degree of its fertility.
Common weeds, like the well-known sow thistle, wheatgrass and weeds, are long-standing and well-studied enemies. But who, for example, knows how to deal with the horsetail that has infested the beds, or how to remove the fern from the site, who knows how to get into the raspberry? Listening to interlocutors, I try to memorize and write down all the tips and methods of weed control, and then try them on my site.
From the Novgorod region she brought a recipe for the development of land heavily clogged with wheatgrass, so sometimes you can't even stick a shovel - not roots, but some kind of bunches of wire. There the sod is cut into layers and folded in the spring in the form of ridges or in a stack so that the top of the sod is inside. In the first summer, seedlings of cabbage or zucchini are planted on such beds, cutting holes with a knife. Watering and feeding are usual. By the fall, the layers of sod are loosened, and the roots of the wheatgrass can be combed out with a pitchfork.
As I mentioned, different types of weeds prefer different types of soil. For example, annoying wood lice, horsetails, ferns and various mosses settle exclusively on soil that has an acidic and strongly acidic reaction. If you deacidify them to a neutral pH, these weeds will disappear from the beds. Liming is best done in the fall, and in the spring, use chalk or cement dust and then select fertilizers for the garden that do not acidify the soil.
A lot of trouble is delivered to gardeners by burdocks, or rather burdock. It is difficult to pull it out of the soil even while it is small, and even more so when it grows up. It is also bad that burdock is able to recover from a piece of root remaining in the soil. There is an old and very good way to deal with this weed. It is necessary to cut off the burdock with a knife or a shovel at the level of the soil, without leaving a growth point, and immediately sprinkle the cut site with a handful of ordinary table salt. From the very first time, up to 98% of weeds die. You can also try this method when fighting thistle.
Weeds umbellate plants, the so-called pipes, settling in the garden, quickly become malicious weeds. They are capable of producing large numbers of very hardy seeds. Although the plant itself is annual, its offspring can settle in the beds for a long time. The thing is that when the time comes for the pipes to bloom and seed, they are able to throw away umbrellas again and again, even if they are constantly broken off and ripped out. But this plant can be fooled: when the umbrellas are fully extended, you should fold it in a "broom" and carefully cut off the buds or flowers with scissors, leaving such a kind of "hedgehog". In this case, the plant will not understand that it was deprived of the opportunity to give seeds, calmly finish the growing season and die.
It often happens that between well-groomed and weed-free beds, the aisles are overgrown with grass. Digging and weeding them is inconvenient, but you want to get rid of green parasites. For such a case, I propose a simple method that will help not only to clear the inter-bed areas from weeds, but also give a portion of good mulch in a year. The secret is in sawdust: while they are fresh, they intensively take nitrogen from the soil, which they need for decomposition. Thus, if the aisles are covered with sawdust with a layer of 10 cm, then all the weed vegetation will simply burn out under it, and over the summer and winter, the sawdust will rot so much that it becomes suitable for entering into the soil or for mulching plantings. They are raked up, and the aisles are filled with a new portion. With the help of sawdust, you can fight weeds along the fence or near the barn, in general in any hard-to-reach places.
It is worth mentioning the continuous shelter of the ridges as a way to control weeds. Shelter is especially convenient in strawberry beds. It is best to use roofing material, but you can also use a black film. The cover is laid out on a flat surface and fixed with stones or hooks. Naturally, the garden bed should be prepared in advance and well filled with fertilizers. After that, holes are cut in the coating into which strawberry whiskers are planted. Caring for such a bed is simple. Watering and liquid fertilizing are carried out in the holes, weeds do not germinate, and the dark color of the coating accumulates additional heat.
And in conclusion, I would like to say a few words about Roundup. Undoubtedly, this is a very useful thing, especially in newly developed plots, when it is possible to process a large area at once without fear of harming cultivated plants. The instructions for the drug say that it is suitable for the destruction of any plants, both annuals and perennials. In my opinion, this is not entirely true, more precisely, the suggested dosage (50 ml per 5 liters of water) does not always work. To completely destroy, for example, a thistle, two or three treatments are required, and the solution should be made twice as strong. The same can be said about wormwood and motherwort. I liked the effect of Roundup on the snake. This hard-to-eradicate weed is completely destroyed. In general, I note that the larger the leaf apparatus of the weed, the faster the drug acts.
I found "Roundup" another interesting, in my opinion, application: in a potato field, after planting tubers, it usually takes about two weeks before the first shoots. During this time, the weeds have time to fill the furrows, the rape and the like are especially rampant. So I carried out the treatment of weeds after planting potato tubers. And by the time the potato tops sprouted, the field was already clear of weeds.
"Roundup" also helps me out in rockeries, where weeding is very difficult because of the dense planting of ground cover plants. Having diluted 50 ml of the preparation in 1 liter of water, I smeared the weed leaves with a brush. Thus, the hill remained intact and uninvited guests were destroyed.
All the methods of weed control that I have proposed can be improved and adapted to the specific conditions of a particular vegetable garden or garden, but I am sure that the experience collected bit by bit will always come in handy.
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