The Main Things In The Garden, In The Flower Garden And In The Garden In August

2024 Author: Sebastian Paterson | [email protected]. Last modified: 2023-12-16 13:47

Cold weather in spring and early June retarded the growth and development of all plants in the garden. In such weather, when the soil temperature drops to 12 degrees Celsius, the root system of plants does not work and, in order to maintain the growth point, they begin to take nutrients from the leaves, so the foliage turns yellow and falls off prematurely.

To maintain the plants, you need to do regular foliar feeding. The Uniflor-Bud fertilizer is best suited for these purposes. Enough two teaspoons per 10 liters of water. Spraying should be done in the evening or in cloudy weather. Timing should be chosen so that it does not rain for at least three hours after spraying.

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In greenhouses in August, the main enemy of tomatoes is late blight and fruit rot. Now it is no longer worth using chemicals, so use 5% iodine (10 ml bottle for 10 liters of water). Spraying should be repeated after three days. Fitosporin can be used. Spraying is carried out every 10 days. The fruits should be sprayed with a solution of calcium chloride (dilute a bottle of 200 grams of a 10% solution in 2 liters of water and spray only the fruits once and always the stalk).

Protect peppers this month from stem rot, just like cucumbers. Gray or white mold must be removed with a dry cloth or soaked in a strong solution of potassium permanganate, and then dust this place with ash. Can be covered with gruel from chalk, potassium permanganate and water.

On cucumbers, bacteriosis and anthracnose should be removed with Fitosporin. It is impossible to use chemicals, including copper preparations.

The soil should be shaved off the onion so that the bulb stands on the soil on the roots. Drizzle with sodium chloride solution (1 glass of salt in a bucket of water) and leave the onion uncovered. The same should be done with cabbage: first, shake off the soil and pour the salt solution on top "over the head", and then, unlike onions, spud again. Do not forget to regularly, about once every 10 days, water the cabbage against the keel with a solution of calcium nitrate (3 tablespoons per 10 liters of water, half a liter under the bush) or milk of lime (a glass of lime or dolomite, you can chalk 10 liters of water for half a liter under the bush).

Only biological products Agravertin or Fitoferm or the new biological product Iskra-bio can be used against pests on vegetables (do not confuse it with the chemical Iskra).

If you have not yet planted garlic before winter at the end of August, around the 25th-26th, try planting early garlic this year. Make holes for the garlic cloves about 12-15 cm deep, add a tablespoon of sand to each one, dip the AVA fertilizer granule and a clove of garlic, cover with a spoonful of sand on top and cover with soil. With such a deep planting, garlic will not sprout in the fall, but it will develop a powerful root system, with which it will leave before winter. The fertilizer will last all summer, and no additional fertilizing is required, and the sand will create micro-drainage around the head of garlic, and it will not rot. By the way, there is such a drug Maxim specifically against the rot of bulbous crops, in which it is generally not bad to soak all bulbous crops before planting.

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At the beginning of the month, as soon as you harvest the currants and gooseberries, you should immediately feed and process the berry bushes. When harvesting, remove spider nests, dried berries, curled leaves and burn them. Berry growers begin to lay the harvest next year, their root system is growing, so they need mineral feeding with superphosphate and potassium.

For red currants and gooseberries, it is enough to take one tablespoon of double superphosphate and two tablespoons of potassium per bush, and for black currants - two tablespoons of double superphosphate and one spoonful of potassium. Fertilizers are best applied during watering in dry weather and dry-embedded in the topsoil in rainy weather. It is undesirable to use potassium chloride, especially for gooseberries, since it will immediately shed the leaves, and leaves are also needed for the successful development of roots. Gooseberries can shed their leaves prematurely and in prolonged droughts if you don't water them.

Berry farmers should not be given nitrogen fertilization in August, especially infusion of weeds or manure, since nitrogen causes the growth of the ends of the branches. This new growth will not have time to lignify by winter and will freeze in winter. On the contrary, you should stop the growth of branches, for this you should pinch (cut off) the tops of branches in black currants and gooseberries, but not in red currants, since it is at the ends of red currant branches that the largest number of fruit buds are laid. That is why you should never trim the ends of red currant branches.

In black currants, on the other hand, the ends of the branches can be shortened annually. If the branches are weak and there are few fruit buds on them (the brushes are rarely located), then the branches are shortened even by a third of their length. But it is better to do pruning in late autumn, since it always causes the lower buds to awaken. We will prune in August, lateral branches will begin to develop from them, but they will not have time to woody before winter, and frost will dry them out in winter.

The weeds under the bushes should be cut with a flat cutter or weeder, burying it about two centimeters into the soil, and leaving them directly under the bushes.

If there are a lot of pests, including aphids, as well as with a slight defeat by powdery mildew, you can use the advice of E. V. Volodina, who recommends throwing a shovel of fresh manure into the middle of the bushes, naturally, without embedding it in the soil and not scattering it around the perimeter of the bush where the sucking roots are located. The smell of manure disorients the pests, and they leave such a bush or even fly around it. In addition, the evaporation released by manure has a detrimental effect on the spores of the powdery mildew fungus.

The beginning of August is the deadline for processing strawberry plantings. It is necessary that the bushes have a large green mass by the end of August, since we very often have early and rather strong frosts at the very end of August or the very beginning of September, and in strawberries, the rhizome is the weakest point. It is necessary that the strawberries cover it with their own leaves.

If you did not manage to process the bushes before mid-August, leave them to winter as they are. For strawberries, this is better than bare, not covered with leaves rhizomes. Usually they stick out from the ground, so the bushes should be covered with soil or poured new soil under them, but so as not to fill up the heart. If you applied the AVA fertilizer when planting strawberries, then you do not need to feed them for three years. If you have not done this, then half a tablespoon of azofoska should be embedded in the soil under each bush.

Sometimes the question is asked: should you mow the strawberry leaves? It should not, since it will begin to grow leaves to the detriment of the setting of fruit buds, the yield will decrease. Mowing can be done no later than the twentieth of July and only in two cases: if you are growing large plantations of strawberries for the sale of berries, or you have old plantings - three years old or older. When mowing, do not touch the heart, otherwise you will make your strawberries disabled.

For many, in the last rainy summer on gooseberries, powdery mildew killed the entire crop (gray felt bloom on leaves and berries). If this has happened to you today, then you will have to spray with Vectra or Topaz preparations. The first time at the beginning of the month, and then again at the end of August or at the very beginning of September, if by that time there are still leaves on it. Weeds should be weeded out and the soil under the bush should also be treated with one of these preparations.

Next spring, be sure to carry out three treatments; on young leaves, then two weeks later - on young ovaries and after harvesting, in order to eradicate the causative agent of the fungus for 4-5 years.

If powdery mildew has damaged only part of the bush, and the rest of the berries are clean, then these preparations should not be used, but it is necessary to spray the entire bush with Fitosporin a couple of times before harvesting, and only after harvesting to spray with Vectra (or Topaz). The same applies to apple trees affected by scab (first black spots on the leaves, then black spots on the apples). You can use either Vectra or Speed.

From cherries, plums, sea buckthorn and lilacs, all root shoots are removed in August. If you want to take root offspring from them, then this should also be done in the first half of August, and you should not take them close to the mother trunk. It is best to take them 1.5-2 meters from it, otherwise you will severely damage the roots of the mother plant.

In flower beds, a red beetle, a lily hoverfly, can inflict great damage on lilies. It can be successfully fought with an excellent remedy against the Colorado potato beetle Sonnet. When you process the potatoes, process the lilies as well. In addition, rust may appear on Eastern hybrids - botrytis. Fortunately, it does not spread to the bulbs, but damages not only the leaves, but also the buds and flowers. Therefore, planting lilies should be regularly, once every two weeks, sprayed with Bordeaux liquid or any other copper solution.