Table of contents:
Video: October Gardening Calendar
- Foliar dressing
- Digging of trunk circles
In October, bushes and trees should be sprayed with a concentrated solution of mineral fertilizers. You can take any of them, but it is cheaper and easier (because it is easily diluted in cold water) to use urea (urea). You will need 700 g per 10 liters of water. If you do not have mineral fertilizers, use table salt, but salt will need 1 kg per 10 liters of water.
It is necessary to spray not only the aerial part, but also the soil under the plantings. You need to start from the very ends of the branches, since it was there that the aphid laid eggs. Then spray all the branches, their forks, since many pests hibernate in the forks and cracks in the bark. Therefore, spray the trunks and stems thoroughly. If foliage still hangs on the trees, spray directly on the leaves.
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In the fallen foliage, and under it and in the upper layer of the soil, pests also gathered to winter. Spraying with a solution of this high concentration will destroy them. Why should this event be done at the end of autumn? Because the plants by this time should have retired, and the chitinous covers of the wintering pests are not yet sufficiently strong, and the mineral fertilizer will penetrate inside, the salt metabolism will be disturbed, and the pest will die, and you will not harm the plant during dormancy.
Of course, in the summer, such spraying cannot be done, it will cause a chemical burn not only on the leaves, but also on the ovaries. Chemical burns appear when spraying pesticides of increased concentration, and there are also thermal burns during severe frosts in the form of convex "birthmarks" and "warts" on fruits. On apples and pears, they are gray-green.
Re-spraying with a concentrated solution of mineral fertilizer should be done in early spring, before the start of sap flow. Increased doses of mineral fertilizers are harmful not only for pests, but also for spores of fungal pathogens. When spraying (not watering), an increased dose of mineral elements does not accumulate in the soil. Such spraying in terms of efficiency is not inferior to the treatment of the garden with nitrafen, which is the strongest poison that causes irreversible damage to the liver. No wonder nitrafen has always been banned for use in garden and backyard plots. It can be applied no closer than 200-400 meters from housing. So, using it in your garden, you poison not only yourself, but also all your neighbors.
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Digging of trunk circles
Do I need to dig the trunk circles? First of all, why is it done? So that water penetrates between the clods of earth and freezes in winter, freezing and thereby killing the wintering pests. In addition, to improve air exchange. But if you sprayed the garden and at the same time did not weed in the summer, but cut off the weeds and mulched the soil under the plantings with them, then it did not become compacted, but, on the contrary, became loose and breathable. So you don't need to dig.
It is impossible for the plants to go dehydrated before winter. In this case, there is a great danger of freezing them out in the harsh winter. Frost not so much damages as dries up young growths at the ends of branches. Do I need to add manure or rotted compost to the trunks?
Organic matter must be applied after the end of sap flow, otherwise it can cause unwanted branch growth at such a late time. But fertilizer should not be applied to the near-stem circles, but along the perimeter of the crown, where the sucking roots are located. What to do if at the end of summer you did not add phosphorus and potassium necessary for root growth? As the saying goes, "the train left." It is pointless to apply these fertilizers in October. The only thing that can still be done is to apply the AVA fertilizer to the soil, because it does not dissolve with water and, accordingly, is not washed out of the soil by either autumn or spring waters.
Why do they rake and burn the foliage? Because pathogens and some pests overwinter on fallen leaves. But you saved her from them. In the spring, foliage should also not be removed from under the plantings. In just a couple of weeks, there will be no trace of her unkempt appearance. Earthworms will take it apart, eat it and develop humus. Over-heating foliage restores soil fertility. In the forest, no one removes it, and humus in the soil accumulates, and does not decrease. It is perfectly preserved under the snow cover and continues to live and work in the soil for many years.
It is necessary to cut off and compost the aboveground part of perennial flowers, and spray the soil with any preparation containing copper (3% solution - one tablespoon per liter of water).
At the end of the month, make shelters over roses, clematis, chrysanthemums, spud peonies, phloxes, irises. Remove lichens from tree trunks and skeletal branches. To do this, make a 7-10% solution of ferrous sulfate (one tablespoon of vitriol per 300 g of water) and apply this solution to lichens. In a few days, they themselves will fall to the ground.
Whitewash the barrels with water-based paint. This simple activity will protect trees not only from frost damage, but also from sunburn in early spring. Both of these works must be done before the temperature drops below 6 degrees Celsius.